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Routes in The Wart

Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Preparation H TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Symbolic Of Life T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Chick Holtcamp and John Lakey, 2/78
Page Views: 1,557 total, 13/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Dec 7, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The clean hands start is obviously "the Good".... the middle section could be "the Bad", and for sure the wide above is "the Ugly"! This route is deceptively awkward for the 34" of real climbing it offers. I did it right side in, left side in, and stacked it, and none of them were great... or graceful. There are some tricks to all them methods, but this no place to tell them... get in there and start wiggling. Really good route with one or two interesting moves.

Location

This route goes up the obvious roof to wide crack on the south west face of the Wart. You can start low in a pit to get an extra 10 feet of extra clean thin hands if you desire. If not, step off the boulder at the base and skip the clean hands. Easy downclimb to climbers right.

Protection

I placed a 2" cam, another 2" cam, and then a #6 Wild Country Cam. If you want to pro the moves out of the pit a the start, use something in the 1.5" range. Summit takes 2" to 3" cams for an anchor.
Pat C
Honolulu
 
Pat C   Honolulu
 
The "ugly" was torture! I must have spent ten minutes on this very short section. I should have worn long sleeves though, that rock just bites into your tasty bbq chicken wings. This thing was harder than Make or Break Flake (.10b) up at the white cliffs of dover. May 29, 2009
chrisp
boulder
chrisp   boulder
The gear description is totally accurate on this route. I did it with only a new #5 camelot and burried it back in the "ugly" part.

the Ugly part was awesome. I thought turning the corner was the technical crux on this, but protectable.

This is a totally fun route that I would recommend to anyone in the area that wants to get a good pump on some interesting climbing! Feb 18, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
The "good" of this route is definitely the start. Girly hands fit perfect with a 2" clean crack, fantastic jams and featured nuggets or dishes for the feet. Transitioning through the "bad" isn't really all that bad. The "ugly", although short, works you over. Nice route, nearly as grainy as the boulders at the base. Fun stuff for any WideFriday¬ô Dec 7, 2007