Type: Trad, 35 ft (11 m)
FA: Chick Holtcamp and John Lakey, 2/78
Page Views: 2,286 total · 14/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Dec 7, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

The clean hands start is obviously "the Good".... the middle section could be "the Bad", and for sure the wide above is "the Ugly"! This route is deceptively awkward for the 34" of real climbing it offers. I did it right side in, left side in, and stacked it, and none of them were great... or graceful. There are some tricks to all them methods, but this no place to tell them... get in there and start wiggling. Really good route with one or two interesting moves.

Location

This route goes up the obvious roof to wide crack on the south west face of the Wart. You can start low in a pit to get an extra 10 feet of extra clean thin hands if you desire. If not, step off the boulder at the base and skip the clean hands. Easy downclimb to climbers right.

Protection

I placed a 2" cam, another 2" cam, and then a #6 Wild Country Cam. If you want to pro the moves out of the pit a the start, use something in the 1.5" range. Summit takes 2" to 3" cams for an anchor.

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