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Routes in Slab Area

A Wing and a Prayer S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
All I Wanted was a Pepsi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Battle of the Bulge S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
By Gully T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Deprived Child T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Deprived Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Shock S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dust Bowl Daze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Frictionary T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kemoslabee T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mikey's Mantle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shits and Grins S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shock Treatment S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stranger than Friction T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Summer Solstice T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad and True T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Winter Solstice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave Whalen, Darrell Jordan - 1986
Page Views: 2,499 total, 20/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Dec 7, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

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Description

A really nice line for the (slightly sandbagged) grade, with a spicy alternate start.

Move up and left on the slab to a gap in the overlap above. Though it's fairly easy climbing, this start is runout with no pro until you reach a bolt below the overlap maybe 30' up. Continue up on good friction following the bolted line to the top.

Direct start (5.10a): Climb left of the regular start to join the route just below the first bolt. No protection.

Location

Starts about 15' right of All I Wanted was a Pepsi.

Protection

Mixed; five bolts supplemented by a light rack. Bolted anchors at the top.

Photos

This Sunday (02/26/17) we did a lead run up Mickeys, a second top rope of Pepsi and at lunch we moved top rope over to Deprived. When webbing anchors, we saw fresh paint "NOT SAFE"with arrows pointing at both Deprived Child bolts. We checked over the bolts and they are still like new condition from last years upgrade. We setup a third sling to the tree 15 ft away and watched the bolts during an abseil and saw no issues. We had just topped this route last Wednesday and the paint wasn't there - we just wanted to post an FYI to anyone that sees it and freaks out. No responsible climber would spray paint and graffiti is all over this mountain and the rangers were training there Sunday also and advised they would clean it. We will bring cleaning setup with us next time to clear it if it's still there Feb 27, 2017
Does this route traverse under the flake to the first bolt or go up and left over the slab to the first bolt? Jan 10, 2017
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
Rap anchors have been replaced. Thanks to the SCC for the hardware. Jun 10, 2016
Will Carney
Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.10a PG13
Will Carney   Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.10a PG13
I agree with O'Neal. The direct move is all about the friction. This is a great route for first timers as it is easily top roped, is low difficulty, and has the reward of topping out with a beautiful view. If you're protecting in the flake, you're in wrong spot. You should be in a spot where you're wondering how you're going to get off the ground at all. And it's good stretch of slab to the first bolt. Aug 28, 2014
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
I had an epiphany on the direct start. It's a 10b move on a cold high friction day wearing Miura's. It's an 11a move on a sunny greasy friction day wearing Mytho's. Jan 1, 2014
Nathan Burns
Dahlonega, GA
  5.6 PG13
Nathan Burns   Dahlonega, GA
  5.6 PG13
Fun lead... 1st bolt was high off the deck, the rest were pretty spaced out (which made things more fun). Bomber #1 camalot under the flake protects between bolt 1 and 2. Some of the moves up high are pretty spicy! Nov 5, 2013
Will Rynes
Grovetown, GA
  5.6
Will Rynes   Grovetown, GA
  5.6
Fun little route, really straight forward with no shortage of hands or feet the whole way. The direct start was pretty cool with a highstep mantle move down low and nice sloper above that. Jun 2, 2012
andjoely
Menlo Park, CA
andjoely   Menlo Park, CA
The direct start (or at least the one I always do) is a cool little boulder problem that starts above the sketchy landing where the rock sticks out just left of a highly eroded area. I would estimate the grade of this start to be about 11b, though the sketchy landing and warm weather can make it feel even harder. Oct 5, 2011
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
Where does the direct route start? I tried doing it at the obvious place, almost directly beneath the first bolt on the face, and found it to be almost impossible before breaking a hold. Sep 30, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.6
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.6
Not really PG13. Start from the flake, placing gear under the flake in the cracks. Takes C3's nicely. Probably a little harder than 5.6 only using the flake. Jul 1, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Fun lead, very much worth doing. Jan 7, 2008