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Routes in Dead Horse Crag
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Cage Monkeys T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Days Between, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Homage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One Hold Shy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Quartzite Jungle T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Surrender to the Air T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Touron Death March T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Woober's Day Out T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Mike Schneiter & BJ Sbarra |
| Page Views: | 584 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Schneiter on Dec 7, 2007 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route was also led ground-up although we initially thought this would be in the 5.9 range. We were very wrong! The corner which looked relatively easy from the ground proved to hold awkward climbing in a gently overhanging corner with difficult gear placements.
Clip a bolt at the start and make a hard pull into the corner. Climb the corner using a variety of techniques, jamming, stemming, and various face techniques. A small bulge in the corner is surmounted by careful stemming and is protected by a #4 Camalot underneath the bulge. Above, easier climbing leads to a good stance and the anchor, which is on the left face. When you lower out from this 40 - 50 foot route, you will land 10 feet or more out from the start of the route.
Clip a bolt at the start and make a hard pull into the corner. Climb the corner using a variety of techniques, jamming, stemming, and various face techniques. A small bulge in the corner is surmounted by careful stemming and is protected by a #4 Camalot underneath the bulge. Above, easier climbing leads to a good stance and the anchor, which is on the left face. When you lower out from this 40 - 50 foot route, you will land 10 feet or more out from the start of the route.
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