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Routes in Dead Horse Crag

Cage Monkeys T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Days Between, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Homage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Hold Shy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Quartzite Jungle T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surrender to the Air T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Touron Death March T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Woober's Day Out T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter & BJ Sbarra
Page Views: 33 total, 0/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 7, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route was also led ground-up although we initially thought this would be in the 5.9 range. We were very wrong! The corner which looked relatively easy from the ground proved to hold awkward climbing in a gently overhanging corner with difficult gear placements.

Clip a bolt at the start and make a hard pull into the corner. Climb the corner using a variety of techniques, jamming, stemming, and various face techniques. A small bulge in the corner is surmounted by careful stemming and is protected by a #4 Camalot underneath the bulge. Above, easier climbing leads to a good stance and the anchor, which is on the left face. When you lower out from this 40 - 50 foot route, you will land 10 feet or more out from the start of the route.

Location

This route is the 2nd route from the right and a bolt protecting the start also marks the start of the route. The route climbs a corner system that looks like a closed book and is gently overhanging.

Protection

One bolt and gear from small to #5 Camalot. Two-bolt chain anchor at the top.

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