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Routes in Dead Horse Crag

Cage Monkeys T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Days Between, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Homage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Hold Shy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Quartzite Jungle T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Surrender to the Air T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Touron Death March T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Woober's Day Out T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: BJ Sbarra & Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 67 total, 1/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 7, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is probably the best route on the wall, and it's certainly my favorite.

Clip a bolt to protect the start and climb underneath the roof before traversing right to a "horn-like" feature. Above, place a couple of good pieces, including a #5 Camalot, before firing the crux. Make big moves on good holds through the crux before heading back left to a bolt. Finish by climbing up the face and into a left-facing corner and to a ledge above, where a two-bolt anchor is situated on the left wall.

Location

Underneath the steep roof in the center of this crag is some red, loose rock that looks like it came from the Fishers. Above this rock lies the great, hard quartzite and a bolt protecting the start of the climb. This is the 6th route from the left, although two routes share the same start. It's the 3rd route from the right.

Protection

Two bolts, and a selection of nuts and cams up to #5 Camalot.

Photos

Very cool route. Sep 13, 2013