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Edwards Crack

5.9, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 25 votes
FA: Steve Edwards, Joe Feeley, Steve Cropley 1983.
Wyoming > Eastern Big Horns > Tongue River Ca… > Big Bird Area

Description

The uber-classic canyon trad route! A splitter fingercrack up a yellow, right-facing dihedral capped by a roof. Ascend it using assorted stemming, laybacking, fingerlocks, and faceholds; save some energy for the devious traverse below the upper roof to the anchors.

Location

On the left side of the wall. Obvious splitter yellow dihedral.

Protection

Doubles of medium stoppers BD #8-#10 work great, also some #.4-#.75 camalots or equivalent, and one larger #2 or #3 for the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Levi Van Buggenum styling the classic Edwards Crack.
[Hide Photo] Levi Van Buggenum styling the classic Edwards Crack.
The splitter corner
[Hide Photo] The splitter corner
Tanner Schoonmaker killing it
[Hide Photo] Tanner Schoonmaker killing it

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Clay Stoner
Sheridan, WY
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I would suggest a #3 c4 for the roof. I had a little trouble getting my #2 c4 in a placement quickly, maybe i'll not be as concerned about a little extra weight next time lol. Apr 18, 2009
Taylor Spiegelberg
WY
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely agree with Clay the #3 at the roof is bomber.Bring lots of .5 cams May 20, 2012
Mike Fallon
Billings, MT
 
[Hide Comment] Really, really fun. #3 was nice to have up top. May 9, 2016
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] May be the best limestone trad route I've done! Sep 28, 2017