Type: Trad, Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 1,768 total · 9/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 4, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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8 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

The Village Idiot is a great long route with outstanding rock and a diversity of moves. The route features two distinct and different cruxes.

Begin the route behind the tree, starting in some dirtier, broken rock to gain access to the sweet plaque of granite above where a couple of excellent splitters cut the face.

At the top of this face, traverse right to the first crux, a section of face climbing protected by four bolts. This first crux features powerful moves and steep climbing and takes you to the base of the prominent, left-facing dihedral.

Once in the dihedral, plug some gear and clip a fixed pin before coming to the second crux. There is now a lower anchor before the second crux for those who don't care to climb around the sharp arete.

The second crux features awkward, technical movement to ascend the dihedral before traversing right, out of the dihedral, around the arete and on to the face above. A couple of bolts in the dihedral protect the crux, while a couple of bolts on the face finish it off.

Enjoy, I think it's one of the best routes at the Narrows.

Location Suggest change

This is the second route on your left when you enter the Notch. It starts behind the tall tree in the Notch just left of the start of The Cement Garden.

Protection Suggest change

Eight bolts, one fixed pin, and a selection of cams from tiny to gold Camalot. A 70-meter rope is required to descend, and it's a rope stretcher so tie a knot in the end of your rope!


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