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Routes in 3 - Spine Cave

Altar, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bone Dry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chosstafarian S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crying Cult S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dan's Playhouse S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil is Never Dry S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hackles Raised S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammer Mill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hippie Hate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Land Fill S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Loose Stools S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rocket Man S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sexual Tyranosaurus S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spinal Twist S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Way to Dry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Trent Baker
Page Views: 3,850 total · 30/month
Shared By: Braxtron on Dec 2, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route

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Like the Shepard's Pie we used to choke-down in grade school, this climb has pretty much everything, aside from mystery meat: crimps, pockets, side-pull, heel hook, knee bar, lumpy-tufa, and the cherry on top: it's over-hanging.


In the back-left of the first cave you'll encounter walking the trail (Spine Cave). Starts and stays just left of the tufa (spine-looking thing) down low.


Fixed draws to chains with lower-offs.


Braxtron   ...
You don't have to knee bar. There's an alternate way to do it that worked better for me (I don't care for knee bar-ing), which involves putting your right foot higher. Hopefully that's ambiguous enough to not give away too much beta. Dec 16, 2007
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Perhaps the best "low 12" sport route in S. Az. This climb really rocks.

Takes 4 draws, then has chain-draws. Perhaps a touch stiff for 12b since the FAist was 6'6" and therefore could do the crux clip from the kneebar. Tyler (who wrote the guide) was over 6' also. The crux chain-draw has a uncinched carabiner which allows it to spin. Next time I'm there I will replace it with a longer, better, properly puttied chain-draw.

Update: crux chaindraw replaced Feb 2008. Jan 20, 2008
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Not sure why you care but...4 bolts, 3 chain-draws, + a poorly placed 2-chain anchor. Apr 24, 2008
Ask away Daryl. I am guessing the reason John wrote his comment the way he did is because it is a sport route. Look up, count hangers, rack up. I am sure it just struck John as an odd question for a sport route. So ask away, post routes, put up new routes, post topos, and have fun climbing. Hope to finally meet you at the Beanfest next week. Eric Oct 27, 2008
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Looking back I can see another question hidden inside Daryl's question. He mentions a "handful of loose biners". So I guess it was unclear that a chain-draw generally INCLUDES the biner. Otherwise the chain-draw would not really serve a very useful function. Dec 5, 2008
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
As of 10/08 there are two biners on the chains for lowering. Lowering off and cleaning the first three draws is still difficult, though. Oct 9, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
joe i assume you meant 10/09? Jan 20, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
Yeah, I meant 10/08/09 (Oct 8th 2009). Jan 21, 2010
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
the movement on this route is AMAZING!!1 Mar 1, 2010
Ryan F.
Tucson, Arizona
Ryan F.   Tucson, Arizona
Here's a cool video with a dope beat.…

The actual ascension was at a later date......sorry about the swearing. Aug 10, 2010
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
I left two quickdraws (and some blood) on this route. I plan to return to work this line as time allows. Please consider these working draws and not booty. Thanks in advance. Dec 9, 2013
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
There is no need for draws on this route except for the first bolt. The rest of the route has permanent chain draws. Oct 8, 2015

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