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Cemetery Gates

5.9+, Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
FA: J.Brown, D.Whiilans 1951
International > Europe > United Kingdom > Wales > Eryri NP > Llanberis Pass > N Side > Dinas Cromlech

Description

Very airy and ballsy route for its day. Surprisingly climbed before Cenotaph Corner. Steep, exposed and strenuous.

1) 110ft 5.9. A sensational pitch. Up the arete and bear left into the crack up this then the wall above on generally good holds, no room for error though, onto a ledge and belay (nuts).

2) 60ft 5.8. Step right and climb the steep, steep arete and around a little to the right, then up to finish.

Location

The right hand side of the right wall. Descend from Cenotaph Corner down a chimney to a tree below the right arete of the wall.

Protection

Nuts, cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Such a cool climb, and to think about doing it in 1951.
[Hide Photo] Such a cool climb, and to think about doing it in 1951.
Rob on the direct finish (Grim Jim) 5.10b/c
[Hide Photo] Rob on the direct finish (Grim Jim) 5.10b/c
Marc Chrysanthou on Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Marc Chrysanthou on Pitch 1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Can be legitimately done in one long single pitch and still manage to maintain tradition.. Apr 15, 2009
[Hide Comment] The correct name/spelling is 'Cemetery Gates' Oct 25, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thanks for catching that Charles. Nov 1, 2011
John Ely
Washington D.C.
[Hide Comment] Watch the original ascent team, Brown and Whillans, climb this circa 1984 on YouTube: 'Don Whillans' Last Climb.'

youtube.com/watch?v=O6CTK2h… Jun 8, 2014
Will Maness
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Highly recommend doing in one long mega-pitch with half ropes. If you're climbing in the UK, you ought to be using half ropes anyway. Amazing climb, my first E1, and one of my most unforgettable climbing experiences to date! Oct 31, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Was HVS when I did it! Nov 1, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
[Hide Comment] John, I just watched this video you mentioned on YouTube ( youtube.com/watch?v=O6CTK2h…) and being someone who hasn't climbed in 5 years, watching Whillans with his beer belly and smokes get up there gave me hope! Amazing how well he climbed given the years and pounds (stones) he was carrying around. Sadly Joe Brown just recently passed. Great book about that crew called "The Boys of Everest". Jun 18, 2020