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Routes in Aguja Frey

Diedro de Jim (5) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Los Museos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Lost Fingers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfil del Mujer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sifuentes Weber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sifuentes-Monti T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 210 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,187 total, 18/month
Shared By: David Trippett on Dec 1, 2007
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description

This is a variation to the normal Los Museos/Lost Fingers route.

This link-up may be done as one long pitch using a 70m rope. Start up Los Museos and head left up the steep, unprotectable slab to the overhanging crack of Abrojos e Centellas with 2-3 fixed pins. Ascend the pumpy crux bulge directly. Easier climbing leads to a belay in an alcove. Belay here or continue on through the final steep dihedral crack of Lost Fingers for a sensational mega-pitch. An ultra classic and stiff for the grade.

Location

West face, Aguja Frey.

Protection

Double Gear to #2 Camalot and alpine draws. Can be done in one pitch with a 70m rope, but watch out for drag. The slab section on the lower part below the crux is not protectable, but the climbing is moderate until the bolt below the crux.

Photos

superflyjt24 Francisco
Crested Butte, CO
 
superflyjt24 Francisco   Crested Butte, CO
 
One of the fixed pins pulled in January '15; now protectable with 0.2 BD/green alien. Jun 2, 2015
David Trippett
Squamish, BC
 
David Trippett   Squamish, BC
 
This is a variation that breaks out left partway up the first pitch, through an easy but run-out slab and heads through the overhang. Takes a direct line to the base of the Lost Fingers corner. Jan 5, 2012
J Med
Bellingham, WA
 
J Med   Bellingham, WA
 
Great route- 1st section on Los Museos has a bolt above the fixed pin (new?)- 10b 1st crux- belayer should take care if the leader blows it at the crux- potential groundfall if sloppy rope-handling...
the wild dihedral of Lost Fingers is spectacular, but only about 10c at most- straight-forward thin-hand jamming, and wild stemming to exit (good pro).
edit: ah, my bad Dave. I didn't realize you could straighten-out the link-up with that part of A&C- I will try it next time! Jan 5, 2012