Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hairy Pin

Cleveland Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Pete Cleveland 1967
Page Views: 5,538 total, 46/month
Shared By: Christian B. Baird on Nov 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb protectable crack then up'n right to knobs and 1st bolt. considerable 5.10 off bolt 15' to jug yellow hold, then still 10-15 feet to second bolt on lower angle shoulder. have a ready for running belayer, thanks travis!

Protection

Two bolts.
Erik Gearhart
Seattle, WA
Erik Gearhart   Seattle, WA
Update: no more bolt. Why the bolt was pulled off this--yet the new grid bolting on Queen Pin is allowed to stay--is just another Needles mystery. Oct 12, 2017
Did this route in the seventies. I had been climbing for about two years. Paul Muell (SP) told me it was safe and not too hard. Scared the crap out of myself and I never much cared for Paul after he sandbagged me like that. It made me much more cautious about what I climbed in the needles. Feb 10, 2014
Well I will try to recall the story of the first ascent.

As I recall Pete had placed the first bolt climbed the crux and then was on his way to the summit when:

His belayer (I forget if it was Dick (Doc) Laptad or Renn Fenton) locked him off on the ledge where the second bolt is and refused to feed more rope until he drilled the second bolt.

I did this route a couple of times and honestly I don't think the second bolt does much good as all of the hard climbing is over and you are only a few feet from the top. Jan 21, 2011
I've heard there is an epic story to Pete's first ascent of this route. I won't try to repeat it since I don't remember the details too well. Anyone? Nov 28, 2010
Dave Rone
Eau Claire, Wis
  5.10+ X
Dave Rone   Eau Claire, Wis  
  5.10+ X
The summit register from Hairy Pin has been gone for many years. Seems like I last saw one about 10 years ago. Jul 13, 2010
Got on this July 5th. Anyone know what happened to the summit register? It was a cool one, and I was sad to see it gone. Jul 12, 2010
Dave Rone
Eau Claire, Wis
  5.10+ X
Dave Rone   Eau Claire, Wis  
  5.10+ X
I remember that tree! It was in place for a long time, but it's gone now. Unfortunately that tree and many others in the vicinity were cut down, cut up, and left to lay as a result of the Pine Beetle infestation. Too bad, it looks like crap around the base of Hairy Pin now, and in many parts of the Hills as well. May 13, 2010
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Oops, my bad...I was indeed thinking the description was of Super Pin.

A historical note: Pete climbed pretty far up a tree near the face to rig some protection for climbing up to and placing the first bolt. May 12, 2010
josh balt
Hill City South Dakota
josh balt   Hill City South Dakota
This is a cool route if you are thinking about doing it go for it, just make sure you have your head that day. I would call it 5.10 pg-13/R then 5.8 x after the crux. Jan 27, 2010
Dave Rone
Eau Claire, Wis
  5.10+ X
Dave Rone   Eau Claire, Wis  
  5.10+ X
Rich,
This is a similar description to the Cleveland route on Super Pin and I believe your observations about those routes are correct.

There are some similarities in the photo even, but this is describing the Cleveland route on Hairy Pin . . .

And while a fall from the crux section is no problem, falling from the shoulder just before the 2nd bolt would likely be very bad. Sep 26, 2008
rgold
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
This sounds like the Barber Route, not the Cleveland Route. Neither way originally had any bolts, and there were a number of ascents of the Barber Route in its original boltless condition. John Bragg and I made one such ascent in the early seventies, I think. The Cleveland Route diagonaled right across the face after the initial moves and has, as far as I know, never been repeated on the lead. Sep 25, 2008
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
I'll have to say the "X" rating is spot on. There are several places where ground fall is possible on this route. Yes the crux is reasonably well protected but a fall getting to the first bolt may well be very tragic. Crystals do break in the Needles on well traveled routes. Jul 21, 2008
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
X rating is not deserved. Falls at the crux are safe and very clean for slab/face. Jul 15, 2008
There's also a piton that can be clipped before traversing to the first bolts. Nov 1, 2007