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Through the Looking Glass
5.10-,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
FA: Ben Craft, Tom Murphy, Jeff Clapp 12/04
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Wonderland of R…
> Wonderland North
> N Wonderland Ap…
> Looking Glass
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
While this route looks like an easy hand crack from the ground, it is less straightforward. Climb through odd fingers and small hands to where the left side of the crack becomes a small headwall. The crack widens considerably for the crux off hands move.
Overall a fun outing, but not the worth the 3 of 5 stars recommended by over enthusiastic FA'ists in Joshua Tree West.
Location
The Looking Glass is split by an obvious hand crack on the left side of the face containing Fracture Dynamics.
Easy descent to the climber's right.
Protection
Standard Josh Rack. A optional large piece could be used at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Moving left at the second ledge. Through the Looking Glass is the crack to the left.
[Hide Photo] Bolted seam to the right of Through the Looking Glass; not sure of name or rating, but fun