Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Wills Young
Page Views: 1,366 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tim Steele on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Start standing with the left hand on a high gaston in the right-hand seam. Pull on and make a long shouldery move right to join with the top of 'Get Carter'.




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Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
A V12 sit-start exists for this problem as well. Mar 31, 2008
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
Daniel Winsor
Bishop, CA
Daniel Winsor   Bishop, CA
The guidebook says to start both hands in the right crack... Which is wicked hard standing on one pad (maybe V9?). It seems that rather than trying hard, climbers have turned to stacking a pile of pads to reach a wonderful left hand gaston... and then calling the problem soft.

That being said, starting with both hands in the crack (per the guide) from a reasonable standing height is awkward and unnatural. A better start to get closer to earning a legitimate 9 points would be starting with left hand in the left crack, right in the right crack (like Twin Cracks' start). Mar 12, 2018