Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (c) Le Dent Pinnacle

Dammit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Floating Log T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Forest Lawn A2+
Hey Vic, Over Here T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jammit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Dent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Le Petite Gratton T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Munge Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steal Your Face TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Aid, 130 ft
FA: Phil Warrender, Jim Wilson & Tobin Sorenson, May 1973
Page Views: 192 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Nov 28, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the few remaining aid routes on Suicide Rock, Forest Lawn serves up both old school nailing (knifeblades and baby angles) and some challenging clean aid as well (small nuts, brassies and offset Aliens). For those up for the challenge, this route is an excellent chance to keep well-versed on overhanging aid and left handed nailing, all the while knowing that the eminant threat of decking on a steep granite slab looms 25' below.... should one zippers the line!

An obscure classic!

After locating the start of the climb (the first crux :P), climb up and right to the crack that slashes the overhanging face. The first 15' is freeclimbing (5.6). Once at the crack, start up and left. Follow this crack to a roof and traverse up and left underneath it (A2+). Continue until it works up a steep left facing corner. Climb this corner for 25 feet and top out on a small somewhat sloping ledge near a pine tree. Two fairly new 3/'8" bolts with Metolius hangers are located on the wall, left of the pine tree. Fix the line here and ensure the line is resting in the rounded crack rather than the outside edge (sharp!) Total length 130'. From the belay, climb a short 5.6 face to big holds and continue straight up to stately ledge 30' above. A short scramble above this stately ledge area allows access to the top of Suicide. Hike out the way you came in.

Location

Park at the designated area near the signed 'Climbers Trail' to Suicide Rock on Circle Drive. Walk down steps fortified with old railroad ties to a trail across a creek to a paved road. Turn right onto the small paved road and continue uphill until it becomes a dirt lane and terminates near a locked brown box. Turn left here and continue up. One will pass a trail register on your left. Signing isn't manditory. Continue up the trail and past a sign stating "Trail not maintained past this point". The trail climbs and will exit on the left to begin switchbacks to base of Suicide Rock. Scramble till one reaches the base of the rock and turn right (north) along the base. Follow the trail along the base and up until one reaches a point were the rock ends. Once past this point, locate a vague climbers trail that ascends a series of switchbacks along the hillside and up to the main trail above. Once at the main trail, turn left and follow it for 400 yards, passing the high point of the trail. As the trail descends, leave the trail to the left and head down to locate a line of weaknesses between the last rock formation (Le Dent Pinnacle) on the southwestern side of Suicide Rock. There is a steep gully that leads down the most western side. Use caution as there is loose rock and pine needles, making for one slippery descent. Once at a low point, traverse through woods, referencing the base of the rock. Traverse roughly 300 yards to the east. One will locate a ledge system working upward, still heading east. The ledge system terminates next to a large pine on a narrow ledge. As one looks upward, there is a steep yet easy crack climb to a small ledge (25' above the pine). Above this ledge and slightly to the right is the start to the overhanging Suicide classic 'Forest Lawn'. The belay will take medium to large nuts and cams.

Protection

-One 60 meter rope
-One tag line
-(2) #4 KB's, (2) #4 LA's, (1) #6 LA, (2) baby Angles
-small to medium brass and aluminum nuts, including (2) #12 nuts...very helpful up high!
-(3) hydrid offset Aliens, reg. Aliens up to a yellow Alien
-50 ovals plus a few quickdraws to eliminate rope drag

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Larry -

Your pin was gone when we did it (Jun 07). There were two fixed nuts at the roof....nothing else. Took hybrid and reg. Aliens, a few #00 TCU's and HB offsets. I dont recall getting in clean small stuff in the first 5 to 10 ft. KB's worked the best to solve that. Found a baby placement but I should have used the smallest C4 in the arsenal (brain fart!). Never used a hook....what for ???? Jan 13, 2011
I did this in '98. we rapped in from the top. Used to be two stations one up high and one mentioned in the description. my goal at the time was to do it hammerless. I used one pin at the bottom and we left it fixed. Up higher I used one pin. The old fixed junk high in the crack was key, and if that's blown who knows. Once you've cut your teeth aiding the pirate do this and you'll be ready for almost anything. My gear list:

Stoppers-one each #5,6,8,11
Hex-one #2
Wild Country Rock-one #8
DMM Wallnut-one #9
TCU-one each #00,0,2,4
Aliens-one each Blue and Yellow
Lowe Balls-#2,3,4 - two of each
Camalots-one #0.5; two #1
Fish Hook
I drove one pin, a LA #3; could possibly be replaced by a #1 or #2 Lowe Ball

Four fixed pieces including one pin I fixed at the start of the crack. Jun 29, 2008