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Cavalo Louco
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | NA |
Page Views: | 2,160 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Christian RodaoBack on Nov 28, 2007 |
Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby |
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Description
6 pitches. 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.
Then pitches 2-5 trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses. All these pitches are bolted but with some fairly long runouts between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to keep down rope drag even on the bolted pitches. You could probably place some smaller pieces to ease the runouts on a few sections.
At the top of pitch 5 on big ledgy area move belay slight up and about 40 feet right to the bottom of a short right facing corner. This corner ends at the downhill part of the man-made structures on the top.
Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt. The protection and belay bolts are all the so-called "grampo P" , 1/2" with a U shaped hanger soldered on. So you can rap off midpitch without leaving a biner if necessary.
Then pitches 2-5 trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses. All these pitches are bolted but with some fairly long runouts between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to keep down rope drag even on the bolted pitches. You could probably place some smaller pieces to ease the runouts on a few sections.
At the top of pitch 5 on big ledgy area move belay slight up and about 40 feet right to the bottom of a short right facing corner. This corner ends at the downhill part of the man-made structures on the top.
Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt. The protection and belay bolts are all the so-called "grampo P" , 1/2" with a U shaped hanger soldered on. So you can rap off midpitch without leaving a biner if necessary.
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