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Routes in Pino Wall

Bad Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Desert Man T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Dust to Dust T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
License and a Visa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Parallel Universe T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pino Wall Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Dawn T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 430 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Kear and Jeff Winberg(RIP), August 1994
Page Views: 896 total, 7/month
Shared By: John Kear on Nov 27, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

I'm psyched with the activity on the Pino Wall. I have to agree with what others are saying about the rock quality out there, it is some of the best in the Sandias. I figured I'd post this route so others would know what has been done out there since it hasn't been in either of Mick's guides.

The first pitch climbs an indistinct blocky corner system that leads to a large tree (the first belay) about 80-100ft up, 5.8. Pitch two climbs a short but splitter corner crack straight up for 15ft, step left into another shallow left facing corner, follow the corner up to a roof and undercling out left, continue liebacking and steming up the corner for about 100ft to a good ledge with a huge block, 5.10a/b. Step right into a shallow right facing corner, crank through the thin crack crux and up the weakness above on bullet rock. After 30 ft or so you'll be on a ledge system, climb off the ledge and up into another left facing corner, climb up and exit the crack system to the left and up in a belay alcove, 5.10b. The last pitch goes up and on top of a pillar to the right of the belay, step off the pillar onto the headwall and traverse into a sloping bay/gully at the top of the cliff .

Location

The route is on the west face of the Pino Wall on the far right (lookers rt) side of the wall near the "nose" of the Pino Wall. The start is 150+ft up a 3rd and 4th class gully directly under the large tree that marks the top of the 1st pitch. Pitch 1 starts off a ledge system in a corner/bay.

Protection

Standard Sandia rack to 3", bring a 2-3 extra finger size pieces (green and yellow aliens) for the belay at the top of pitch 3. There is no fixed gear. I placed a pin on the second ascent at the crux but pulled it out with my fingers a couple years later. The crux protects well with small cams and stoppers (purple tcu)

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