Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ben Folsom & Maura Hahnenberger Nov. 23-24, 2007
Page Views: 164 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Pitch 1- Great nutting and some small cams up the thin crack lead to a bolt at about 35 feet. More thin clean aid leads past two more bolts to a belay at a small hanging stance. 120 feet C2

Pitch 2- Thin cams and more interesting nutting goes up a left curving crack (passing two bolts) to a steep corner. Climb the corner past two more bolts and a fixed slider nut to a three bolt belay on the great summit. There is a register. 85 feet 5.7 C2+


At 0.4 miles from the turnoff into Lucky Strike Mine canyon from the main Reds Canyon Road, find a place to park and walk west into the westernmost fork of the canyon towards the towers which are in view. Follow old ATV tracks in the wash and hike up talus skirting a few small cliff bands to the base of the tower. DPOS is the tower to the left with the wide crack splitting it. Easy fifth class climbing leads to a gully behind the main wall and tower. Scramble up this gully to just below a large chockstone shaped like a guillotine. There is a nice thin crack in a smooth wall leading up the tower from here. The route is not visible from anywhere on the ground. Waxing and Waning begins in the thin crack below the chockstone.


A couple sets of stoppers, mostly small to medium sizes. 3-4 sets of cams from 0.1 Camalot size to #0.5 camalot size. 2-3 sets of cams from .75 camalot size to #3. A few bigger cams to #4.5 camalot size.