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Routes in Exploding Energy Boulder

Exploding Energy Shard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plague of Flies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reality Check S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Matthias Holladay & Dan Hatfield
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Rick Shull, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb scar past a drilled angle.

Protection

bolt/fp used to get to flattop to gain access for numerous TR's we set up way back when . . .

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Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Been racking my brain, trying to find that box of old slides...if the old bolts are the same as on the Holladay-Ludwig route, then it's mine, otherwise IDK... Oct 16, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.8+ X
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.8+ X
The Bigfoot Climbing Guide lists a route, route #31, as "Holladay O U Rock (?) FFA: Matthias Holladay '91" with three bolts (saw one chopped bolt and hammered/sabotaged hangerless bolt). Pretty much everything in that guide is wrong... It's to the right of Plague Of Flies on your top rope wall. I was just curious really, it's a very flattering name ha! Sep 8, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
I have no idea what Holladay OU Rock means.
Feel free to replace pro on E.E.S., if you're so inclined. Enjoy! Sep 2, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.8+ X
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.8+ X
I led this one today. WILD! Once is enough. The gear is ancient and not trustworthy. R/X rated. Crux is just after the rusted out piton moving left on flexing/exfoliating flake crimps with no feet. After looping the hangerless bolt I lassoed the sketchy block over my head with a large sling and mantled out left.

It's wild to think back to when this was the "easy way up." It would be a fun access route if the gear wasn't so.... "historic" Aug 30, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.8+ X
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.8+ X
The drilled angle and bolt/washer are still there. There's some old 1/2" webbing tied around the hangerless bolt. The bigfoot guide shows another bolted route around the corner by the ocean called "Holladay O U Rock." Any insight on that one?

Edit: I checked out "Holladay O U Rock" today, it has a hangerless smashed bolt and a chopped bolt. Oh well. Still curious the history though. Aug 23, 2015
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
 
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
 
I suppose the drilled angle and bolt? are long gone? Jul 9, 2015