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Routes in Liberty Cap

Beauty And the Beast T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cool Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Jeopardy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
F/S T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fire Within T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Irish Pride S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kokopelli T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leprechaun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberty Cap Tower T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1
Never Cry Wolf T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
On Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Osiris T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2-
St. Patrick's Day Massacre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Steppin' On it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stonehenge T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack of Tube Socks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 PG13
Whirling Dervish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: Cameron Burns, Jon Butler, 22 April 1995
Page Views: 1,943 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 26, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start the route at the saddle between the tower and the rim. Walk out on a slabby ledge on the east side of the tower until you reach an obvious crack. There is a move with fall potential to reach the crack.
Once in the crack, climb past loose rock to a block that does not seem like it should be solid. Using the block, aid up past a bad seam to a good crack. Continue to a large ledge.

At this ledge, you can put in a belay or continue to the summit via a bolt ladder.
The bolt ladder consists of 5 empty angle holes, 1 loose bolt, and 2 good bolts (one in the middle and one at the top). The first empty angle hole should be easily skipped if you are not short.

Descent-Rappel down the northeast face. One full 60m will be just enough if you stop on the slabby ledge that you start on. If you rappel to the ground, it will add on 50' and you will obviously need another rope.

There is an opportunity for a direct start to this line. It will add on 50' and will not require the slabby traverse.

Location

To find Twelve Pack of Tube Socks, walk about a mile past the Liberty Cap cragging area up Ute Canyon, Walmart Tower is obvious just before Safeway Spire. Start on the saddle between Walmart and the rim wall.

Protection

Standard clean rack, a few angles for the holes, tie offs, and hangers. One full 60 meter rope to get down.

Photos

Jeremy Cleaveland
Lake City, CO
Jeremy Cleaveland   Lake City, CO
Just climbed Walmart Tower 11/30/08, a bit awkward in spots, but a good line. Was going to short fix at the ledge, but with only one drilled angle there just did it in one pitch. There were no fixed drilled angles (except in the rap anchor), there was still a loose bolt for the second move of the bolt ladder. Nice tower! Dec 1, 2008
Ben Kiessel  
 
Walmart Tower is just before Safeway Spire on the right side of the canyon up on the hill side. I don't know where Angular Motion Buttress is. Jul 1, 2008
Where is this tower in relation to Safeway Spire and the Angular Motion Buttress? May 29, 2008
Wow!
That's really interesting. So it's been retrobolted with worse-than-the-original bolts? Madness!
I remember hanging in crazy positions pounding on a hand drill and cursing those Rawls. They took forever to place. Glad they're still there and still good, but then again they should be. May 1, 2008
Ben Kiessel  
 
All the Rawls were bomber. It looked like a later party had placed more bolts, all of which were not bomber. Apr 18, 2008
Ben,
Yes, sadly we didn't have enough stuff to equip those two properly and never got back to them. Lame on our part. I was kidding about thieves. But the posts about Safeway are a bit disturbing. I'm pretty sure Jon and I used only those pain-in-the-butt five-piece Rawls, which can be really tricky to place. There are some other types of bolts in the pictures posted, so not sure what's going on there..... Apr 18, 2008
Ben Kiessel  
 
Cam- when you left were all the holes filled? What about on Jolly? Apr 16, 2008
"5 empty angle holes, 1 loose bolt, and 2 good bolts (one in the middle and one at the top"

What the----?

Who stole those?

Goddamned desert thieves......gotta love 'em. Apr 14, 2008