PRINT: Rock Climb Little Nest, West Idaho

Little Nest

5.7, Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 71 votes
FA: unknown
Idaho > W Idaho > Black Cliffs > Populace Wall

Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal raptor closures: Scary Canyon, Face Canyon, Highway Face, Steep Wall, Far Side, and Nixon Head (updated 3/15/24) Details

Adding new bolts, new anchors, and new routes at the Black Cliffs are currently NOT ALLOWED pending a BLM environmental assessment. Significant trail work is also on hold. Please contact the Boise Climbers Alliance with questions or for additional information

Description

This climb is a jug haul. Big huge holds that you can get both hands on. It is a great first lead for somebody. It's four bolts to chains. The crux comes on the last move. You step out from a ledge onto a face and pull onto another ledge.

Location

Once you get to Populace Wall it is to the right about two climbs.

Protection

Quickdraws or you can lead it on gear. You'll need bigger cams up to #6 for the offwidth and some stoppers for the finish.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Little nest bolt line

Nice climb. Make sure you stay on the face at the top. If you go to the big ledge on the left it is a far reach to clip the last bolt.

Little Nest on gear, used a cam on this one but it is a fun lead on a single set of wires.

Close up shot of the 1st and 2nd Bolts of Little Nest.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Lynn Catlin
Boise, ID

5.7+ PG13

I gave this a "PG-13" safety rating because the area between 3rd and 4th bolt is a bit hairy if you fall, lots to get hurt on. Leaning out the the 4th clip is a bit shaky if you're a bit challenged in the length of reach category. It looks like someone moved the 4th bolt about 1-2 feet to the right, away from where you are standing on a small ledge. This is great for rope drag, but since you're only 4-5 feet below the anchors, it would be better to have the bolt back left. No problem though, just be calm in clipping. May 4, 2010

Dan R

Fun easy climb, but not a good beginner lead. Easy for someone who climbs well above 5.7 but if it is near your limit and you blow the 2nd clip you could easily deck even with a great belayer. There are a few 5.6/5.7 climbs over in the mid cliffs that are bolted better for a beginner lead. Mar 24, 2020

Shad O'Neel
Boise, ID

easy to place some gear between the bolts and make this a great intro to placing gear. Yeah, you could really splat if you slipped while clipping bolt 2. The top is the business though, tricky. Nov 1, 2020

CD Transporter
Boise, ID

5.7 R

The bolting of this route is not safe and should be updated:
13 feet ground to bolt 1 (good)
12.5 feet bolt 1 to bolt 2 (ground fall)
8 feet bolt 2 to bolt 3 (good)
14 feet bolt 3 to bolt 4 (ledge fall)
7 feet bolt 4 to anchors (good)

It is common to see groups of new (very shaky looking) climbers on this route. If it were safe, this absolutely would be a great first lead, but not in is current condition. As it is right now, this is a great warmup route for strong climbers and toprope route for beginners, but go elsewhere for a first lead. Adding two bolts would remove the ground and ledge fall potential and be a much better match for the 5.7 grade. Mar 2, 2021

michalm

The anchors on this route have been fitted with durable lower off hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA). Hardware upgrades are made possible through donations by climbers like you. Please donate today at safeclimbing.org Nov 10, 2021

Teton Tom
Boise, ID

5.7 PG13

I placed a purple Camelot between bolt 1 & 2, and a green Camelot between bolts 3 & 4. The moves aren’t that hard, but pretty serious fall potential on this route… Feb 13, 2022

Camdon Kay
Idaho

5.7 PG13

Fun to place the big gear if you have it; it is definitely not a sport climb. The little traverse at the top is committing and exposed for the grade, and was a great finish. Jan 22, 2023