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Little Nest
5.7,
Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 71
votes
FA: unknown
Idaho
> W Idaho
> Black Cliffs
> Populace Wall
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal raptor closures: Scary Canyon, Face Canyon, Highway Face, Steep Wall, Far Side, and Nixon Head (updated 3/15/24)
Details
Adding new bolts, new anchors, and new routes at the Black Cliffs are currently NOT ALLOWED pending a BLM environmental assessment. Significant trail work is also on hold. Please contact the Boise Climbers Alliance with questions or for additional information
Description
This climb is a jug haul. Big huge holds that you can get both hands on. It is a great first lead for somebody. It's four bolts to chains. The crux comes on the last move. You step out from a ledge onto a face and pull onto another ledge.
Location
Once you get to Populace Wall it is to the right about two climbs.
Protection
Quickdraws or you can lead it on gear. You'll need bigger cams up to #6 for the offwidth and some stoppers for the finish.
[Hide Photo] Little nest bolt line
[Hide Photo] Nice climb. Make sure you stay on the face at the top. If you go to the big ledge on the left it is a far reach to clip the last bolt.
[Hide Photo] Little Nest on gear, used a cam on this one but it is a fun lead on a single set of wires.
[Hide Photo] Close up shot of the 1st and 2nd Bolts of Little Nest.
Boise, ID
Boise, ID
Boise, ID
13 feet ground to bolt 1 (good)
12.5 feet bolt 1 to bolt 2 (ground fall)
8 feet bolt 2 to bolt 3 (good)
14 feet bolt 3 to bolt 4 (ledge fall)
7 feet bolt 4 to anchors (good)
It is common to see groups of new (very shaky looking) climbers on this route. If it were safe, this absolutely would be a great first lead, but not in is current condition. As it is right now, this is a great warmup route for strong climbers and toprope route for beginners, but go elsewhere for a first lead. Adding two bolts would remove the ground and ledge fall potential and be a much better match for the 5.7 grade. Mar 2, 2021
Boise, ID
Idaho