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Routes in Milestone Buttress

Milestone Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: G. Barlow, H. Priestly-Smith 1910
Page Views: 69 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Very polished route but well worth doing with great views over Llyn Ogwen - very slippery in the rain, and as such probably about 5.9.

1) 100ft 5.4. The diagonal crack to the wall, over this and up another, rougher, slab to a good ledge.

2) 100ft 5.4. Up a corner, then a leg-jam chimney to an apparent impasse at the pinnacle known as The Bivalve - but wait! There's a wonderful exposed hand-traverse left under The Bivalve and around to blocks and ledges.

3) 30ft 5.4. Ahh, the crux is a difficult chimney tucked back in a corner - enjoy!!!

4) 20ft 5.4. A short slab finishes the climb.

Descend to the right down broken rocks and heather.

Location

Big slab right of the crest of the buttress - there's a diagonal crack running up and left.

Protection

Nuts are fine - cams if you must.
Rob Lilley
Greensboro, NC
  5.5
Rob Lilley   Greensboro, NC
  5.5
In places the rock is so polished you can almost see your face in it, however the holds are positive and there are some great moves for the grade. Apr 30, 2012