Milestone Direct

Very polished route but well worth doing with great views over Llyn Ogwen - very slippery in the rain, and as such probably about 5.9.

1) 100ft 5.4. The diagonal crack to the wall, over this and up another, rougher, slab to a good ledge.

2) 100ft 5.4. Up a corner, then a leg-jam chimney to an apparent impasse at the pinnacle known as The Bivalve - but wait! There's a wonderful exposed hand-traverse left under The Bivalve and around to blocks and ledges.

3) 30ft 5.4. Ahh, the crux is a difficult chimney tucked back in a corner - enjoy!!!

4) 20ft 5.4. A short slab finishes the climb.

Descend to the right down broken rocks and heather.

Big slab right of the crest of the buttress - there's a diagonal crack running up and left.

Nuts are fine - cams if you must.