A fun excursion up the buttress with a real grunter of a crux. Those old dudes loved their chimneys. There's some exposure too on the upper section. Goes okay in the rain.

1) 100ft 5.4. Up a groove and blocks to a big grassy ledge.

2) 80ft 5.4. Up a steep wall beneath The Gash, go right and belay.

3) 60ft 5.6. Grunt your way up the chimney (crux) - perhaps removing your pack. Then head up a wall to the crest of the ridge above The Gash.

4) 120ft 5.0. Follow the crest of the ridge in a great position.

5) 120ft 5.0. Continue up the ridge until stopped by a steep wall.

6) 60ft 5.6. Traverse right then up another

, which is not quite so strenuous as the first, but can be perennially wet, to land surprised at the top of the climb.

Traverse north to the summit.

From the Heather Terrace - at the foot of the South Buttress beneath an obvious (if it's not misty!) huge triangular roof (The Gash) about 150 feet up.

Nuts and sling - cams if you must.