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Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 4 from 2
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Routes in 3. South & West Faces (from Adamant Glacier)
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East Peak of the Gothics - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Slinky Tassle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0 |
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South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stickle South Face T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1-2 Easy Snow |
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West Buttress of the Horn T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Thomas Gibson & Robert Rohn 1981 |
| Page Views: | 7,987 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | David Trippett on Nov 22, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Description
Known for their classic route "Freeway" in Squamish, this is yet another Gibson/Rohn gem.
Perhaps the most classic rock route in the Adamants and maybe one of the best in North America. 8-10 Long pitches of crack and face climbing in a spectacular position above the Austerity glacier.
Glacial retreat has made the original start difficult to reach.
Begin on the middle of the buttress and take a ramp/ledge system to the highest and furthest belay on the right side of the buttress. From here climb up 5 meters and begin to traverse to the right around the corner out of view. The first pitch is out of view around the corner/edge and careful, difficult stepping across gets you to this crack....a 40 meter splitter that the guide book calls 5.9, but is probably .10+(photo with my bare foot)
The route continues in a right facing corner with additional vertical cracks on the right to a prominent ledge. This pitch was significantly shorter and easier than the 1st. Once at the ledge, relocate the belay ~5m to the left (NNW) below an obvious set of discontinuous cracks angling up and left. Ascend these cracks to a prominent hanging flake and some fixed gear. A thrutchy section leads to a steep, but easy overlap and the top of the first "tower."
Some walking and 150m of easy, rambling mid-fifth with the occasional step leads to a very thin crack at a headwall.
Ascend the thin crack(.10+), which is not as difficult as it looks, to a slabby belay on the crest at some more fixed gear.
Traverse right to the south side to a hidden crack and up a steep and very exposed crack. This leads to the summit plateau.
Walk north all the way to the end of this plateau and descend to the west to the top of the Austerity glacier via a very loose gully system from some fixed slings. Walk back down to the start of the route along the west side of Ironman.
Perhaps the most classic rock route in the Adamants and maybe one of the best in North America. 8-10 Long pitches of crack and face climbing in a spectacular position above the Austerity glacier.
Glacial retreat has made the original start difficult to reach.
Begin on the middle of the buttress and take a ramp/ledge system to the highest and furthest belay on the right side of the buttress. From here climb up 5 meters and begin to traverse to the right around the corner out of view. The first pitch is out of view around the corner/edge and careful, difficult stepping across gets you to this crack....a 40 meter splitter that the guide book calls 5.9, but is probably .10+(photo with my bare foot)
The route continues in a right facing corner with additional vertical cracks on the right to a prominent ledge. This pitch was significantly shorter and easier than the 1st. Once at the ledge, relocate the belay ~5m to the left (NNW) below an obvious set of discontinuous cracks angling up and left. Ascend these cracks to a prominent hanging flake and some fixed gear. A thrutchy section leads to a steep, but easy overlap and the top of the first "tower."
Some walking and 150m of easy, rambling mid-fifth with the occasional step leads to a very thin crack at a headwall.
Ascend the thin crack(.10+), which is not as difficult as it looks, to a slabby belay on the crest at some more fixed gear.
Traverse right to the south side to a hidden crack and up a steep and very exposed crack. This leads to the summit plateau.
Walk north all the way to the end of this plateau and descend to the west to the top of the Austerity glacier via a very loose gully system from some fixed slings. Walk back down to the start of the route along the west side of Ironman.
Location
Ironman, technically Ironman South, is the unmistakable buttress at the head of the Austerity glacier.
Protection
Double cams from green alien to #2 camalot, one #3 camalot. Nuts. Slings. One 70m rope is OK.
Ice axe and crampons strongly recommended for the descent. The upper headwall of the Austerity glacier burns down to ice in the late summer and is very steep, the descent gully will drop you off right there. In good snow conditions only an axe is needed.
Ice axe and crampons strongly recommended for the descent. The upper headwall of the Austerity glacier burns down to ice in the late summer and is very steep, the descent gully will drop you off right there. In good snow conditions only an axe is needed.
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