Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Thomas Gibson & Robert Rohn 1981
Page Views: 7,987 total · 41/month
Shared By: David Trippett on Nov 22, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Robert Hall, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description Suggest change

Known for their classic route "Freeway" in Squamish, this is yet another Gibson/Rohn gem.

Perhaps the most classic rock route in the Adamants and maybe one of the best in North America. 8-10 Long pitches of crack and face climbing in a spectacular position above the Austerity glacier.

Glacial retreat has made the original start difficult to reach.

Begin on the middle of the buttress and take a ramp/ledge system to the highest and furthest belay on the right side of the buttress. From here climb up 5 meters and begin to traverse to the right around the corner out of view. The first pitch is out of view around the corner/edge and careful, difficult stepping across gets you to this crack....a 40 meter splitter that the guide book calls 5.9, but is probably .10+(photo with my bare foot)

The route continues in a right facing corner with additional vertical cracks on the right to a prominent ledge. This pitch was significantly shorter and easier than the 1st. Once at the ledge, relocate the belay ~5m to the left (NNW) below an obvious set of discontinuous cracks angling up and left. Ascend these cracks to a prominent hanging flake and some fixed gear. A thrutchy section leads to a steep, but easy overlap and the top of the first "tower."

Some walking and 150m of easy, rambling mid-fifth with the occasional step leads to a very thin crack at a headwall.

Ascend the thin crack(.10+), which is not as difficult as it looks, to a slabby belay on the crest at some more fixed gear.

Traverse right to the south side to a hidden crack and up a steep and very exposed crack. This leads to the summit plateau.

Walk north all the way to the end of this plateau and descend to the west to the top of the Austerity glacier via a very loose gully system from some fixed slings. Walk back down to the start of the route along the west side of Ironman.

Location Suggest change

Ironman, technically Ironman South, is the unmistakable buttress at the head of the Austerity glacier.

Protection Suggest change

Double cams from green alien to #2 camalot, one #3 camalot. Nuts. Slings. One 70m rope is OK.

Ice axe and crampons strongly recommended for the descent. The upper headwall of the Austerity glacier burns down to ice in the late summer and is very steep, the descent gully will drop you off right there. In good snow conditions only an axe is needed.