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Snowblind

WI4, Trad, Ice, 500 ft (152 m), Grade III,  Avg: 3.5 from 29 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > CO Ice & Mixed > Silverton > S Mineral Creek

Description

Right of the Direct North Face is a prominent, red chimney system coming down Peak 12,579. Snowblind is a fun route that follows the chimney.

P1. Climb the low angle gully with a few steps of ice. Belay off a block on the right at the first real pitch (WI2/3).

P2. Climb a steeper pitch of ice, and continue up low angle snow/ice to the base of the next pitch. Belay off screws or gear (WI3/3+).

P3. Climb a steep pitch of ice back in the chimney, then go left around the chockstone, and belay on the left at some fixed stoppers (WI4/4+).

P4. Move belay up snow to the base of the next pitch. Climb a nice steep pitch of ice to a belay off a tree on the right (WI4).

Above this point is a lot of snow slogging with the potential for a couple short steps of ice.

Per Liba Kopeckova: more details on the rappel - do 3 double rope and one single rope rappel down. We found a tree anchor at the top, then there was an anchor on the climber's left - some old nuts and we had to make two v-threads.

Location

The route is about 4 1/4 miles up FR 585 near the campground.

Protection

A selection of screws and possibly rock gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Middle pitch-fun!
[Hide Photo] Middle pitch-fun!
12.8.17.
[Hide Photo] 12.8.17.
The last steep pitch of Snowblind - it's steep, but you can back stem against the rock.
[Hide Photo] The last steep pitch of Snowblind - it's steep, but you can back stem against the rock.
Snowblind.
[Hide Photo] Snowblind.
Right variation of the pitch above "crux" pitch.
[Hide Photo] Right variation of the pitch above "crux" pitch.
2nd "pitch".
[Hide Photo] 2nd "pitch".
Great conditions.
[Hide Photo] Great conditions.
Fresh tracks on Snowblind.
[Hide Photo] Fresh tracks on Snowblind.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Todd R
Ophir
[Hide Comment] Choose your day wisely for this one (and all in the Silverton area). A buddy and I went to climb it on November 7th a few years back, on a day with 6" of new snow. We were about 15 feet from becoming statistics when the sun warmed the E-facing aspect of the somewhat hidden bowl 1500' above us, and something began to move. A big slide left a debris pile 100m long by 12 feet deep, filling in the gully below the route. We decided to drink coffee instead that day.... Nov 19, 2008
8egg.nu
[Hide Comment] This route is great! It is equipped for rappelling with some decent piton anchors and slings. It seems a better option than a bushwack. You may have to do a V-thread for the mini first pitch. Enjoy! Nov 20, 2010
MTN MIA
Vail
 
[Hide Comment] I just did this route two days ago. Absolutely excellent!!!! Very thin in places with little to no pro. Overall the climbing is max WI 4 but with a + for spice.
Three easy raps with one 60 meter rope. The first is off a tree and just gets you down (i.e. you need a true 60), the next two raps are both off a stopper/knotted sling combo. Nov 16, 2013
Liba Kopeckova
Montrose, CO
[Hide Comment] 3 double rope and one single rope rappel down. We found a tree anchor at the top, then there was an anchor on the climber's left - some old nuts and we had to make two v-threads.

The climb was running with water, and we got very wet.

Beautiful setting though.... Jan 29, 2018