Type: Trad, Ice, 500 ft (152 m), Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,125 total · 30/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Right of the Direct North Face is a prominent, red chimney system coming down Peak 12,579. Snowblind is a fun route that follows the chimney.

P1. Climb the low angle gully with a few steps of ice. Belay off a block on the right at the first real pitch (WI2/3).

P2. Climb a steeper pitch of ice, and continue up low angle snow/ice to the base of the next pitch. Belay off screws or gear (WI3/3+).

P3. Climb a steep pitch of ice back in the chimney, then go left around the chockstone, and belay on the left at some fixed stoppers (WI4/4+).

P4. Move belay up snow to the base of the next pitch. Climb a nice steep pitch of ice to a belay off a tree on the right (WI4).

Above this point is a lot of snow slogging with the potential for a couple short steps of ice.

Per Liba Kopeckova: more details on the rappel - do 3 double rope and one single rope rappel down. We found a tree anchor at the top, then there was an anchor on the climber's left - some old nuts and we had to make two v-threads.

Location Suggest change

The route is about 4 1/4 miles up FR 585 near the campground.

Protection Suggest change

A selection of screws and possibly rock gear.