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Routes in South Mineral Creek

Campground Couloir T WI3
Cataract Creek T WI3-4
Direct North Face T WI4
Snotty Nosed Brat T WI3-4
Snowblind T WI4
Sundance T WI4-5
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Type: Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,055 total · 31/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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22 Opinions

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Description

Right of the Direct North Face is a prominent red chimney system on Peak 12,579. Follow the chimney for up to 4-5 pitches. Descend by rapping the route or by walk off.

Per Liba Kopeckova: more details on the rappel - do 3 double rope and one single rope rappel down. We found a tree anchor at the top, then there was an anchor on the climber's left - some old nuts and we had to make two v-threads.

Location

The route is about 4 1/4 miles up FR 585 near the campground.

Protection

A selection of screws.

Photos

Todd R
Ophir
Todd R   Ophir
Choose your day wisely for this one (and all in the Silverton area). A buddy and I went to climb it on November 7th a few years back, on a day with 6" of new snow. We were about 15 feet from becoming statistics when the sun warmed the E-facing aspect of the somewhat hidden bowl 1500' above us, and something began to move. A big slide left a debris pile 100m long by 12 feet deep, filling in the gully below the route. We decided to drink coffee instead that day.... Nov 19, 2008
8egg.nu  
This route is great! It is equipped for rappelling with some decent piton anchors and slings. It seems a better option than a bushwack. You may have to do a V-thread for the mini first pitch. Enjoy! Nov 20, 2010
Princess Mia
Vail
 
Princess Mia   Vail
 
I just did this route two days ago. Absolutely excellent!!!! Very thin in places with little to no pro. Overall the climbing is max WI 4 but with a + for spice.
Three easy raps with one 60 meter rope. The first is off a tree and just gets you down (i.e. you need a true 60), the next two raps are both off a stopper/knotted sling combo. Nov 16, 2013
Liba Kopeckova
Montrose, Colorado
Liba Kopeckova   Montrose, Colorado
3 double rope and one single rope rappel down. We found a tree anchor at the top, then there was an anchor on the climber's left - some old nuts and we had to make two v-threads.

The climb was running with water, and we got very wet.

Beautiful setting though.... Jan 29, 2018

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