Type: Trad, Ice, 500 ft (152 m), Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,125 total · 30/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


29 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Right of the Direct North Face is a prominent, red chimney system coming down Peak 12,579. Snowblind is a fun route that follows the chimney.

P1. Climb the low angle gully with a few steps of ice. Belay off a block on the right at the first real pitch (WI2/3).

P2. Climb a steeper pitch of ice, and continue up low angle snow/ice to the base of the next pitch. Belay off screws or gear (WI3/3+).

P3. Climb a steep pitch of ice back in the chimney, then go left around the chockstone, and belay on the left at some fixed stoppers (WI4/4+).

P4. Move belay up snow to the base of the next pitch. Climb a nice steep pitch of ice to a belay off a tree on the right (WI4).

Above this point is a lot of snow slogging with the potential for a couple short steps of ice.

Per Liba Kopeckova: more details on the rappel - do 3 double rope and one single rope rappel down. We found a tree anchor at the top, then there was an anchor on the climber's left - some old nuts and we had to make two v-threads.

Location Suggest change

The route is about 4 1/4 miles up FR 585 near the campground.

Protection Suggest change

A selection of screws and possibly rock gear.

Photos

loading