Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South Mineral Creek

Campground Couloir T WI3
Cataract Creek T WI3-4
Direct North Face T WI4
Snotty Nosed Brat T WI3-4
Snowblind T WI4
Sundance T WI4-5
Type: Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,739 total, 39/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

From the end of FR 585 at the South Mineral Campground this is the prominent line of ice visible up to the left. Most only climb the first 2-3 pitches of stepped WI3-4 then rap off. Easier WI2-3 continues above. Descend by rapping the route with doubles. There are two bolted anchors, both are on the left side. The first is ~200', and the second is ~150' higher.

There is also another pitch of ice to the left of the main couloir. It is ~150', WI3. There is no fixed anchor on this one. Do a v-thread or find a suitable tree.

Location

About 4.3 miles up FR 585. This is the prominent line of ice up and to the left of the road.

Protection

A selection of screws.
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  WI3
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  WI3
Both anchors look like they have brand new tat as of this season. Nov 20, 2013
Yes, I wish I read the first comment before I went up there yesterday. The highest of the rap anchors could especially benefit from some new rope. A generous estimate would be 20 feet to redo the whole thing. A couple rap rings wouldn't hurt either. It also needs to be equalized just a tad better. But obviously I trusted my life on it, so it's not THAT bad. The lower anchor is in better shape. Nov 18, 2009
Garry Baker
Montrose, CO
Garry Baker   Montrose, CO
There are two sets of bolted rap anchors on this climb. The first is at 200 feet (rope stretcher), and the second 125-150 feet above the first. The anchors are set high above the ice, and as of Nov. 20, 2008 had ropes threaded directly through the hangars. It would be good to redo these with screw links/locking biners and new rope/cord. Nov 27, 2008