Type: Trad, Ice, 1500 ft (455 m), Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,250 total · 47/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Nov 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The Direct North Face is a Silverton area classic that follows a series of steps and ramps up to the summit of Peak 12,579'. Most typically climb 3-4 pitches then rappel or walk off.

Start by heading up the drainage directly to the base of the first steep curtain/pillar. This is usually ~300 of WI2/2+.

P1. Climb the first pitch of steep ice up to a ledge and an optional belay off screws (~75', WI4).

P2. Continue up more steep ice to a large terrace and belay off screws. This can be combined with P1 (~100', WI3/4).

P3. Some snow slogging leads to the base of the next pitch of ice. Climb moderate ice up to the next ledge system (~75', WI3).

P4 on. From here, it is a lot of snow slogging with a few short ice steps that lead to the summit. One step in particular can form into some steep fun.

Descend the route by walking off to the left or thread and rap down.

Location Suggest change

Follow FR 585 for about 4 miles. The Direct North Face is the next route after passing Cataract Creek. It should be easy to spot off to the left of the FR 585.

Protection Suggest change

A selection of screws.