Direct North Face
Avg: 3.2 from 33 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 1500 ft, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||6,677 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||e Dixon on Nov 22, 2007|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Direct North Face is a Silverton area classic that follows a series of ramps and steps up Peak 12,579'.
Start by heading up the drainage, directly to the base of the first steep curtain/pillar. Depending on the conditions, this can be short, easy ice steps (WI2) or snow slogging (easy to solo or simul). Climb the first pitch of steep ice up to a ledge (~70', WI4) and an optional belay. Continue up more steep ice (~100', WI3/4) to a large terrace. Some snow slogging leads to the base of the next pitch of ice. Climb moderate ice (~75', WI3) up to the next ledge system. From here, it is a lot of snow slogging and a few short ice steps that lead to the summit.
Descend the route by walking off to the left after any of the steps, or V-thread and rap off.