Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,561 total · 34/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Nov 21, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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37 Opinions

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Description

The steep get steeper!

A way fun route up the big solution pockets to the moment of truth almost right at the top which, surprisingly, can be finessed rather than brute forced - don't forget to finish this off with the obligatory Stoney mantle move.

Location

Left buttress of the Back Wall.

Protection

Toprope problem - boulder and cams.

Photos

Erick Santos
Los Angeles, CA
 
Erick Santos   Los Angeles, CA
 
How is this route best TRed? Climbed it today would've taken a big swing had I not finished. I saw some old webbing left behind on the big boulder directly above the finish of the route but would need A LOT of webbing. Couldn't find optimal placements for cams. Oct 28, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
I used very long slings last time - but no cams. Oct 30, 2017
Yellowdog  
 
Great route. I slinged the boulder, of course, then used a medium hex in the far gap under the boulder. At least 10 feet of webbing would work best. The biggest issue, however, is a chunk of rock near the top that is about to go, it actually moves underfoot if it's stood upon. It has a great hold on it and serves as a solid foot/ledge before the fun mantle on top.... so who knows what this climb will morph into after it goes. I added a pic of loose section.... check it out Dec 30, 2017
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9
Thanks! I haven't climbed it for a while and never realized it was so loose. I've always used a knee bar under it. I'll have to check it out. Jan 3, 2018