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Yabba Dabba Don't
V3,
Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),
Avg: 3 from 185
votes
FA: James March
California
> Joshua Tree NP
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The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
After easy moves to a big jug in a left leaning diagonal crack, this problem involves an exciting and committing diagonal dyno to an exceptionally large, black xenolith. The landing drops away at a sloping angle into a pile of big cobbles, but can be made fairly safe with a couple of pads.
[Hide Photo] I use a left undercling, right hand on first crimp, bump to second crimp, left heel hook, bring left hand in to first crimp then reach out to the finish horn with right hand. I'm 5'1" and my spine…
[Hide Comment] Short person beta: Right hand up to the first crimp, left heel hook (hand-foot match on jug), cross over left hand to the higher crimp. The more pads the better, the landing is horrible.
Oct 21, 2013
[Hide Comment] I'm six feet and I used some of the short person beta Sys Ex mentioned. I had my right foot angled into the starting crack and my left foot flagged with my left hand crossed over on the high crimp. It's a committing move but situating myself this way distributed all the weight evenly and gave me good balance so I could throw for the jug with my right hand.
Jan 20, 2015
[Hide Comment] Try starting as low as you can slot your right hand fingers into the crack to slot the left hand in a good lock before finishing the climb for a bit more value IMO.
Dec 24, 2020
[Hide Comment] I’ve seen this problem a few times but hadn’t tried it. I thought it was going to be tall and scary. I finally tried it and loved it! It was fantastic.
Mar 12, 2021
[Hide Comment] Make sure your pads are good and you account for the rock near the bottom. Also rolled my ankle today falling near the top right onto my pad
Nov 17, 2023
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You've got jugs and end on the best jug. go for it! Mar 29, 2022