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Cheek Full of Chaw

5.10, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3 from 88 votes
FA: Mike Tea and Peter Eernissie
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall

Description

Climb the nice thin hands crack through bulges to a two bolt anchor.

Location

This is the nice thin hands/wide finger crack to the right of Unknown Offwidth. Anchors are visible from below.

Protection

2-3 sets of cams from #.5 camalot size to #1 camalot size. Maybe 1 or 2 hand size cams??

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stout mid-section- rewarding jaunt.
[Hide Photo] Stout mid-section- rewarding jaunt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tea
[Hide Comment] Hey Ben!
This short route was dubbed "Cheek Full of Chaw 5.10", done about the same time you did "Teeter Totter", by myselfand Peter Eernissie. We climbed Teeter Totter the same weekend on your recommendation if I remember right. Fresh drill dust and cool moves on Tetter Totter. Anyway...another shorty on the wall, but fun. Dec 5, 2007
Ben Folsom
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the info! I will update my topo on here shortly. Do you know what the route is just left of Teeter Totter going up the groove/crack to a bolt anchor? Brian in SLC and I are both curious about this.
Good name on this route, as I like leafy tobacco! Dec 5, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
[Hide Comment] Rumer has that route name is "Rat Hole", Ben. Confirming that. How hard do you think it was? I'm thinkin' 5.9ish? Seemed harder than Private Pizza to me (by a grade) but, softer rock near the start may have got my juices flowing a tad more. Cheers! Dec 6, 2007
Ben Folsom
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Your right Brian, I will update the topo here shortly. Dec 6, 2007
Adam Johnson
Park City, UT
[Hide Comment] fun Jun 30, 2010
Light .50
Santaquin, UT
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Great Route, I would suggest 3-4 1.5 friends, 3 # 2’s, and 1 # 2.5 or # 3 in the off-width section. May 16, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] nothing bigger than a #1 camalot is needed. Feb 5, 2012
Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Great climb must do if you're in the area. Seems to eat up .5 or orange Metolius. My buddy placed about 5 of these size and was happy to have them. That being said, 3 could do, so long as your comfortable with body length placements in the crux and you don't place one down low. Apr 25, 2017
Thomas G.
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route, I just wish the crux section was longer. No need to bring 5 .5's IMO - I was comfortable with doubles in .5 and triples in .75. Jul 10, 2017
Rusty Chungus
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] Loved this route. I placed 3 .75s but only ended up placing a single .5, not sure where you'd get 5 of them in. Black metolius is perfect for the last section before the chains. May 3, 2023