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Routes in Private Pizza Wall

Black Blood T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Cheek Full of Redman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pat's Pizza T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Private Pizza T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teeter Totter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Unknown Aid A2
Unknown Finger Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Handcrack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Offwidth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Mike Tea and Peter Eernissie
Page Views: 2,915 total, 24/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Climb the nice thin hands crack through bulges to a two bolt anchor.

Location

This is the nice thin hands/wide finger crack to the right of Unknown Offwidth. Anchors are visible from below.

Protection

2-3 sets of cams from #.5 camalot size to #1 camalot size. Maybe 1 or 2 hand size cams??

Photos

Thomas G.
SLC, Utah
 
Thomas G.   SLC, Utah
 
Fun route, I just wish the crux section was longer. No need to bring 5 .5's IMO - I was comfortable with doubles in .5 and triples in .75. Jul 10, 2017
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Great climb must do if you're in the area. Seems to eat up .5 or orange Metolius. My buddy placed about 5 of these size and was happy to have them. That being said, 3 could do, so long as your comfortable with body length placements in the crux and you don't place one down low. Apr 25, 2017
Nicholas Spiropulos
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10+
Nicholas Spiropulos   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10+
Second best route on the wall! Bring a few green BD C4s for the middle section. I give it a 5.10+ rating because of the middle section. Dec 6, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
nothing bigger than a #1 camalot is needed. Feb 5, 2012
Light .50
  5.10+
Light .50  
  5.10+
Great Route, I would suggest 3-4 1.5 friends, 3 # 2’s, and 1 # 2.5 or # 3 in the off-width section. May 16, 2011
Adam Johnson
Park City, UT
Adam Johnson   Park City, UT
fun Jun 30, 2010
Ben Folsom  
 
Your right Brian, I will update the topo here shortly. Dec 6, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Rumer has that route name is "Rat Hole", Ben. Confirming that. How hard do you think it was? I'm thinkin' 5.9ish? Seemed harder than Private Pizza to me (by a grade) but, softer rock near the start may have got my juices flowing a tad more. Cheers! Dec 6, 2007
Ben Folsom  
 
Thanks for the info! I will update my topo on here shortly. Do you know what the route is just left of Teeter Totter going up the groove/crack to a bolt anchor? Brian in SLC and I are both curious about this.
Good name on this route, as I like leafy tobacco! Dec 5, 2007
Tea
Tea  
Hey Ben!
This short route was dubbed "Cheek Full of Redman 5.10", done about the same time you did "Teeter Totter", by myselfand Peter Eernissie. We climbed Teeter Totter the same weekend on your recommendation if I remember right. Fresh drill dust and cool moves on Tetter Totter. Anyway...another shorty on the wall, but fun. Dec 5, 2007