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Black Blood

5.10 R, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: Ben Folsom Oct. 1999
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall

Description

Climb the offwidth which turns into a squeeze chimney which gets wider until reaching a ledge below a roof and a single bolt anchor.

Location

This route is the offwidth/chimney system 40 feet right of Teeter Totter.

Protection

On the first ascent I only got one small cam in about 5 feet before the anchor. You could probably get a very large cam in just off the ground, but it wouldn't do much good. Tube chocks may protect the bottom 25 feet or so which is the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Folsom
  5.10
[Hide Comment] On the first ascent of this I had a nice, bleeding cut on my ankle which put blood stains on the right wall of the crack. That is the reason for the name Black Blood. When I came back this weekend, the blood stains were still there! If you climb this route, you may want to bring a bolt kit and put in another anchor bolt as I only drilled one. I will try to get back shortly and re-due the anchor. When I do I will update this post. Nov 19, 2007
Ben LaRiviere
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] There are now two bolts at the top of this route. a #6 could protect the first 25 ft, then big bros. May 6, 2019