Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lots of Balls Slab

Amazing Grace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Autumn Sauna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Beat Street Trauma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Left of Fauna T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Patient Pace T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tony Calderboner, 2008
Page Views: 81 total, 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
The Grist Mill was recently closed to public access by the Wasatch Cache National Forest Service. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

Pitch 1: (200’) Climb a slab to a belay stance with 1.5” cracks.
Pitch 2: (200’) Climb a slab to a 2-bolt station. 1” cams may be helpful.
Pitch 3: (200’) Climb a slab to a 2-bolt station. 0.4” & 3.5” cams may be helpful.

Protection

I recommend 8 cams (0.4”-3.5”), 8 nuts (0.3”-1”), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24”).

Descent

Rappel 200’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Beatstreet Trauma.
Rappel 100’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna.
Rappel 100’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna.
Rappel 100’ to the ground.

History

Arie Leeflang bolted this on lead, by hand, rope-solo in 2007.

Photos

- No Photos -
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
 
This is a really fun moderate. A little more beta:

Pitch one is probably best if mixed up with 'Amazing Grace' to the left. Otherwise, climb a slabby crack to gritty runnel and slab to belay ledge (~120'- 5.5?).

Pitch two climbs the large west facing corner that arches near its top, exit out the top (fun) and aim slightly right on easy but runout rock (5.5) to alcove belay (195')- 2 bolt belay.

Pitch three heads back out left, following features to a hard to see bolt (~30'). Continue up to a right trending trough (#4 friend or equiv.). Two more bolts finish off an excellent slab (5.7-5.8). Either exit above into broken rock or head right onto the final slab (5.7-5.8, 2 more bolts) and a 2 bolt belay (195'). TCU's or general equivalent are helpful in a couple of spots. Again a great moderate, but a couple of (easy) PG-13/R sections. Nov 20, 2007