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Raindancer

5.10a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 344 votes
FA: Jared Hancock, Matt Tackett, Mike Cole, Mark Ryan - 2006
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > (PMRP) Pendergr… > Drive-Bob Parking > Chica Bonita Wall

Description

A tricky no feet start leads to a heavily pocketed face and easier climbing above. Short route and a good warm-up.

Location

On the face when you first reach the wall. It is just to the left of a corner.

Protection

3 bolts, mussy hooks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Good climb for the beginner 10a leader.
[Hide Photo] Good climb for the beginner 10a leader.
The start. Really difficult to get your feet up. Once up, the 10 moves are just getting to the first bolt. 5.8 past that.
[Hide Photo] The start. Really difficult to get your feet up. Once up, the 10 moves are just getting to the first bolt. 5.8 past that.
The top section.
[Hide Photo] The top section.
face left of dihedral
[Hide Photo] face left of dihedral

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian M
Long Beach, CA
[Hide Comment] difficulty comes from first couple of moves, nice pockets after first bolt then just cruise to the chains Jun 7, 2013
LmsCo
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] A bouldery start to get off the ground, and I wouldn't call it a cruise to the chains. Felt like one long, sustained, V1 boulder problem to me. Sep 25, 2013
Joe Abbott 1
St. Louis
[Hide Comment] Maybe I couldn't read the beta but the start of this route gave me PTSD. Nov 30, 2016
Jnybeth Sanders
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] could not figure out the start of this one! Dec 18, 2017
Daniel Kat
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] saw many different start betas & attempts... other than starting in the corner, all of them seemed closer to 5.11 sequences than 5.10. Oct 21, 2019
Matthew Jaggers
Red River Gorge
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Did the right start beta, up the right slopey side pulls, definitely felt 11-. Partner did the left beta and he said it felt like a hard 10. Fun route. There may be a secret .10a start, but i didn't find it. Nov 2, 2020
Phillip Thompson
[Hide Comment] 5.10a I agree with but doesn’t do this route justice. The moves before the the first bolt are amazing and bouldery but after that it’s just a fun jug haul to the chains. Jul 28, 2021
Willow Jordan
Lexington, KY
 
[Hide Comment] I recommend going right at the start. Start feels like hard 10 moves, but the route gets much easier after that, so I think the grade is accurate. Take your time puzzling out the start, and enjoy pulling jugs to the anchors after the first bolt. Jun 5, 2022
Mikey McClelland
Cincinnati, OH
[Hide Comment] No clue how to start this thing to make it feel 10a. More like 11a with any of the starts I tried. If someone has beta to make the start feel 10a please share. Aug 22, 2022
iclimegud
[Hide Comment] Full rebolt with SS glue-ins and mussy hook anchors 9/9/2023 Sep 12, 2023
Jared Hancock
Travelers Rest, SC
 
[Hide Comment] The original start was climbed from the right going up the left-leaning slopey flake feature. It seems that most people climb the easier variation from the left, so the bolts were shifted slightly to the left during the rebolt. However, it is still possible to do the original start if you so desire. Sep 12, 2023
Ryan Stoess
Louisville, KY
[Hide Comment] Short climb and not really enough bang for your buck, but good warm up. Here is a 3ed person video if you like that. But I messed up recording of the hardest part: youtu.be/rDHQL76_FIg Sep 22, 2024