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Routes in Black Wall (aka Happy Acres)

All that, Jazz T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cram It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geriatric Therapy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greek Tragedy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Happy Acres T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mom & Apple Pie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mothers of Invention S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spontaneous Enjoyment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tres Hombres T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8+ T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mark Limage, Gary Sanders *(see notes)
Page Views: 1,701 total, 14/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Nov 19, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The crux, I think, was moving over a slight bulge on the second pitch; assuming you do the variation. I can't speak of the Standard (2 pitch) route. Rock quality was marginal, at times, on the first pitch. P2 ascends a small corner, and then trends left onto the face with two bolts to the "bulge". There is a belay station on a small ledge above the bulge.

Location

Located on the right-hand side of the left face that is Happy Acres (just left of the huge right-facing corner). The standard GT is two pitches to a ledge that intersects with the corner. The variation moves left at the first belay.

Protection

First pitch is short and bolted. A light rack for the second and (third) up to 2".

Photos

Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.8
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.8
There is some confusion as to this climb and All That Jazz. Apparently some people consider the variation of going left up the left facing corner to the bolted belay and then on to a third pitch a different climb(All That Jazz). Some people (Handren guidebook) consider it a variation of Geriatric Therapy. If you look at the photos for the two climbs they show the same (variation) second pitch. Apr 12, 2016
I did this route with Randy Grandstaff in 1987 and there were no bolts on route or for belays. We did the route in 2 and a half pitches using gear for anchors. We walked off. This has always been the "Black Wall" and there may be other ascents not noted by Sal, Paul and Nick. Jan 13, 2009
Did the original second pitch of Geriatric Therapy with Nurse Ratchet last week.

Some fragile rock, its a good exercise in routefinding and finding good protection. 5.7. A 30m rap can return you to the P1 belay, whence you can do the variation (which we did.)

Note that there are bolts but no rap anchors at the top of the third pitch (on the variation) so walking off is the best option. A rappel would have serious rope-snag potential anyway. Good views down onto the First and Second Pullouts from the walk off. Nov 27, 2008