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Straight Shot

5.11d, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 30 votes
FA: Paul Van Betten, Nick Nordblom
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > First Creek Canyon > Alcohol Wall
Warning Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste DetailsDrop down

Description

Start just to the right of the main corner, stem your way into it and fire up with various stemming and crack technique to a roof. Pull around the right side and continue up the nice crack in a right facing corner above to the bolted anchor.

Location

Just left of the Gin Ricky corner is a shorter, right facing corner with a roof about 2/3 of the way up, followed by a nice 1-2" crack.

Protection

RP's, Nuts and cams to a #1 Camalot. Double up on fingers to the #1. Pro is good.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finishing up
[Hide Photo] Finishing up
Through the low crux
[Hide Photo] Through the low crux
fiddling in an RP
[Hide Photo] fiddling in an RP
Straight Shot (11d) follows the corner just left of center ending near the top of the photo at the white flake.
[Hide Photo] Straight Shot (11d) follows the corner just left of center ending near the top of the photo at the white flake.
darren climbing straight shot (11d).  photo by krautstrunk
[Hide Photo] darren climbing straight shot (11d). photo by krautstrunk
going for the crimp, straight shot (11d). photo by kraustrunk
[Hide Photo] going for the crimp, straight shot (11d). photo by kraustrunk

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Best route on the wall IMO if you climb the grade. Go for the onsight, it's strenuous and pretty wild, but the gear is great. Jun 2, 2012
Paul Madry
New York, NY
  5.11d PG13
[Hide Comment] Its ok. Not best on the wall IMHO. It was actually my first 5.11d lead ever but i like stemming. After plaing blue alient its a bit runout. i placed RP which was 90%, then go to start of the crack up right- goor rest and pro. Apr 25, 2013
Brian Prince
reno
 
[Hide Comment] I thought this was harder than the respective pitch on Cloud Tower. It's a shorter crux, but felt pretty desperate for me. I did fall on both of them though... but CT felt very reasonable in comparison.

Could probably be top roped rapping from gin ricky Dec 5, 2013
Jon Clark
Planet Earth
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I find it hard to call it the best route on the wall due to it's length, but it is an awesome route with good stemming. I also found it well protected. I don't think it's runout at all unless you consider gear at your feet runout. Stout in the grade, pushing into 12-. Oct 25, 2015
Jorge Jordan
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Thing eats small pro, all bomber. Crux is short, but HARD. Similar maybe in difficulty to the crux pitch on Jupiter II, definitely harder but much shorter crux than on CT. I was happy to have a #2 C4 when I got to the first roof, could place it a little deeper in better rock. I'd be even happier with thinner fingers. Really great short pitch. May 23, 2016