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ED

5.7, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 58 votes
FA: Ed Griffiths, Ken Thompson - 2004
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Muir Valley > Stadium
Warning Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb up the pocketed face to the left-facing dihedral. Follow the dihedral to a ledge with a two bolt anchor.

Location

When you reach the wall go right past "No Bones About It" to the obvious dihedral.

Protection

(1) set of stoppers, (1) set Camalots #.3 - #75

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

looking up from base of climb
[Hide Photo] looking up from base of climb
ED (crack) , BG (face climb) , and KS (extension starting off ledge)
[Hide Photo] ED (crack) , BG (face climb) , and KS (extension starting off ledge)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] smeary layback... don't climb if wet May 24, 2011
[Hide Comment] Not recommended for a newer leader- gear is kinda funky and mostly small. Oct 22, 2013
highneed
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Like other have said, weird gear. Take tricams thru brown, nuts and .75 - 3 Camalot. Expect to spend more time on gear than climbing. Sep 7, 2016
[Hide Comment] No need to run out the last 10 feet: placements are there if you look hard enough. Don't stop at the ledge, continue plugging gear up to the anchors on KS! Aug 28, 2021
Patrick Deegan
South Bend
 
[Hide Comment] it climbs like the Muir Valley version of Mailbox (Long Wall, North Gorge), but without the off width ramp at the bottom. Jun 20, 2022
David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Laybacking is definitely not required for this climb: in my party three people of different sizes climbed it and none of us laybacked.

There are nut placements but they were fiddly; sticking to a double rack of cams would be easier. Apr 18, 2024