Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,676 total · 35/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Summer climbing times restricted Details

Description

It starts in the middle cave that faces out into the harbor. The cave usually has graffiti in it. Stem up to the roof, under-cling the big slopey horn, reach for the two knobs, then slap the jug and hang on for a big swing. It's sort of reachy but also one of the best problems at Pirate Cove.

Protection

There's nice soft sand to land in, no pad required. But a spotter might be good because you get so horizontal at the crux.

Photos

Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
There's a heel toe lock under the roof that is the key to this problem.It keeps your feet from peeling off when you go for the lip. Aug 7, 2008
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
If you can't get the heel-toe, this problem is a lot harder than rated. Oct 14, 2008
Gilles
Arcata,CA
Gilles   Arcata,CA
This is one of my favorite climbs, although just recently the big jug that you shoot for has broken off. Not sure what to rate it now, hahaha. May 30, 2009
Anyone have any beta for finishing this problem now that most of the original holds are missing? any picture or videos would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Patrick. Mar 27, 2010
T B
  V2
T B  
  V2
I broke off a hold over the lip many years ago. Had the heel/toe locked. Hold hit me in the face and pushed my bottom teeth through my lip (happy for a sandy landing)... still have the lip scar. Jun 23, 2012
As stated key holds have been broken near the top. Recent local consensus of the problem is v5. Here is some beta of me climbing it :youtube.com/watch?v=Y_mXrjw… Nov 24, 2012
Brad Alexander
Costa Mesa, CA
  V5
Brad Alexander   Costa Mesa, CA
  V5
Dan Stringer
Eugene, OR
 
Dan Stringer   Eugene, OR
 
As stated above, this problem is now gone. This was the tallest, and one of the most fun problems there, imo. Haven't looked for a work around yet, as it still looks fairly chossy. But it looks like there may be a chance of working a new problem up the right side of the face, coming out of the cave, but this would likely be a much harder problem. Aug 25, 2015
Chris Tuohino
Anaheim, CA
Chris Tuohino   Anaheim, CA
This summer I have been reworking this classic route looking to reopen it and it is still fairly chossy but it DEFINITELY goes - I'm thinking v6 atm, sans send. Hit me up if you want to jump on it and I'll give you the best beta that I have come up with so far - only slightly different than the original movements. Nov 2, 2018