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Jam on Jam

5.7, Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 64 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Central Arizona > *Phoenix Areas > Pinnacle Peak > Y-Crack Boulder

Description

A good climb for beginning crack climbers because the crack is pretty smooth on the inside and is easy on the hands.

Location

On opposite side of boulder from the Y crack, big crack running up right hand side to the right of two bolt Corona Club climb. North side of boulder.

Protection

medium cams, neighborhood of .75 C4 I think. Two rap anchors, two hangers on top of boulder so you can set a top rope if you lead one of the other climbs on the boulder.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sosa on a perfect spot to stop, pose, & smile for a picture
[Hide Photo] Sosa on a perfect spot to stop, pose, & smile for a picture
[8/2022] Climber: Nicola Ciarelli doing a TR on Jam on Jam in the beautiful AZ Heat.
[Hide Photo] [8/2022] Climber: Nicola Ciarelli doing a TR on Jam on Jam in the beautiful AZ Heat.
Thought this route would be a walk in the park. Jams were extra deep and shorts were a poor choice. Placed a nut early and a .75. Ran out the rest as it felt secure and I didn't see anything obvious per the gear I had. Spicer than expected, fun!
[Hide Photo] Thought this route would be a walk in the park. Jams were extra deep and shorts were a poor choice. Placed a nut early and a .75. Ran out the rest as it felt secure and I didn't see anything obviou…
J on J
[Hide Photo] J on J
J on J
[Hide Photo] J on J
J on J
[Hide Photo] J on J
Jam on Jam
[Hide Photo] Jam on Jam
Evelyn moving up
[Hide Photo] Evelyn moving up

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.6
[Hide Comment] This climb was a bit awkward for me both times I've done it. Fun jams to a jug up high, but the feet are a little weird if you are trying to avoid having to jam them deep into the crack. Feb 10, 2010
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Couldn't help but laugh when I read the suggested 5.5 rating. Climb is awkward and fairly stout. Don't be fooled. Protects well and good jams can be found. I used a #4 C4 at the last wide section. Bring singles of .5 - #4 C4 and double up on .75/1 sizes. Nov 15, 2015
Sam Forrest
Phoenix, AZ
[Hide Comment] Hardest 5.5 I think I've ever climbed. Gets a bit off-widthy in sections. The gear is good, and i even managed to get a couple medium sized nuts in. Hard climbing for about the first half, then it turns into a hike. Feb 6, 2017
Gregory Cooper
Phoenix, AZ
[Hide Comment] Crack was too small for me to jam anything so I had to resort to other methods making it feel really awkward. Mostly ended relying on crimps. Watch your feet near the bottom as some foot holds broke off from decomposing granite. Oct 18, 2018
bio
mesa, az
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Great fun, a bit awkward for grade. Great gear. Jan 11, 2021
Bryan Baker
Surprise, AZ
  5.7
[Hide Comment] This has been so awkward both times I have led it. The crack wants to spit you out. It is hard to find good feet once you get about 7 feet off the ground. This is the crux. Apr 9, 2023
Joey Patrum
Northern Virginia - DC Metr…
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Beautiful crack that protects well but it's deeper than it looks from the ground. The nice finger to small hand crack is buried in an oddly angled off-width pushing you down and right that gives this a fairly solid 5.7 rating, in my opinion. Struggled with this after 8 months of couch surfing and not leading anything in ~5 years. Had to bail and let my partner lead it. He muscled through and then I top roped it. Fun climb if a bit frustrating. Apr 25, 2024