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Glamdring

5.11a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 98 votes
FA: Galen Kirkwood
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Middle Earth > Middle of Middle Earth

Description

A nice and slopey sport climb which maintains its difficulty without the need for finger popping crimpers.

Location

In the Middle Earth area, just up and left of the pod, just right of Karmic Relief. You will see the chalk on the slopers.

Protection

4 bolts to a rap anchor. Sporting some upgraded hardware 11/2007.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

High concentration of sport (for Mission Gorge).
[Hide Photo] High concentration of sport (for Mission Gorge).
Eric Scherch rocking Glamdring while Bandit belays.
[Hide Photo] Eric Scherch rocking Glamdring while Bandit belays.
This is what i thing is the crux. Transitioning from left feet to this heel hook, then double gastoning to get to the jug above my head
[Hide Photo] This is what i thing is the crux. Transitioning from left feet to this heel hook, then double gastoning to get to the jug above my head
The rest after the crimpy section
[Hide Photo] The rest after the crimpy section
2006, getting the jug at the finish of the crux
[Hide Photo] 2006, getting the jug at the finish of the crux
Just below crux #2
[Hide Photo] Just below crux #2
Glamdring on a spring evening. Photo by B. Vo.
[Hide Photo] Glamdring on a spring evening. Photo by B. Vo.
Myself thinkin out the moves on Glamdring. 5.11a.
[Hide Photo] Myself thinkin out the moves on Glamdring. 5.11a.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Thomas Claiborne
Flagstaff
 
[Hide Comment] Great rock on this one. Not the usual shit, greasy feet that's representative of most gorge climbing. Oct 28, 2020
Cesar Cardenas
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The heel hook is rad, heres some beta if you wanna see the climb itself: youtube.com/watch?v=gDC5Hgq… Oct 31, 2020
Jaime BB
San Diego, CA
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] My beta is a bit different. I used more delicate moves onto the smaller, slippery, polished smear for my feet using two additional quick crimps moving from the sloper and pinch to pull myself over to the right and onto the large polished ledge.
Here’s the video, brightened at times to highlight the moves and clipped out my minute long rest at the top- youtu.be/JYe2Xy_lMVg
On TR here, but will lead as soon as I can and update my post link. Oct 30, 2022
Matt Beebe
Twentynine Palms
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] It’s 11b in Dave Kennedy’s guide. Feels really stout for 11a. Crux is low so best to bring an attentive belayer. Apr 23, 2023