Daniel Cohn

[Hide Comment] There are chains on top of this climb so making a (gear) anchor is optional. Apr 26, 2008

1Eric Rhicard Tucson

[Hide Comment] Hey Dcohn can you get to the ground with a sixty meter rope? Apr 27, 2008

Daniel Cohn

[Hide Comment] Not unless it is a REALLY long 60 meter rope. Apr 28, 2008

John Steiger

[Hide Comment] I sort of remember this, because at the time (1983) the local climbers were just getting into the exciting realm of 5.12 (or so we thought). Anyway, this first went free in two pitches, the first led by Gary Hervert -- one of Tucson's best early (McKewen-Baker era) climbers -- and the second led by Chip Chace -- who lived in Tucson for a short while but left quite a trail of hard, impressive ascents, particularly in the Dragoons. All I did was eliminate the hanging belay. Also, I think I was with John Sherman that day, not Smitty. May 24, 2008

joshf missoula, mt   5.11+

[Hide Comment] I changed the people in the FA, i noted the EFR guide which has smitty in the FA. Thanks for the corrections John. May 25, 2008

1Eric Rhicard Tucson

[Hide Comment] Oh sure blame EFR and SQII! You might want to check again there Josh! SQII page 167 14. Hist.....(JS,JSh,83) Not sure why I didn't note the FA's of the original 2 pitches. You see what how easy it is for someone to use me as their scapegoat? Ha, but I am on to you Josh! Just kidding brother. May 25, 2008

joshf missoula, mt   5.11+

[Hide Comment] With the amount of routes in SQII, mistakes are inevitable efr. Besides, how can i ever forgive myself for quoting a climber without triple checking the sources!? We all know that climbers cannot be trusted! May 29, 2008

Bladrey Chan

[Hide Comment] we were able to TR this w/ a 70m off the chains. Fantastically amazing route - looking forward to the redpoint Oct 13, 2008

1Eric Rhicard Tucson

[Hide Comment] 70 meter definitely reaches the ground. Oct 14, 2008

Brian Weinstein   5.11+

[Hide Comment] This is by far one of the best pitches I've done on Lemmon. It's worth noting that the last 20 feet is run out 10- climbing to the top. Superb movement. Nov 26, 2009

1Eric Rhicard Tucson

[Hide Comment] Beg to differ on the last 20 feet being run out. I found good pro to the top. Nov 26, 2009

Brian Weinstein   5.11+

[Hide Comment] Eric- I recall the line eating stoppers and cams before the bolts. After pulling the crux (bolt-protected...this route must have gone free on gear only?) I ended up on a little shelf and placed a good .4 BD and shot up right. From the shelf it looks like one can choose a variety of 20-foot exits. The way I took out right was not protected. Maybe heading straight up is the better protected option. Either way, a classic pitch. Dec 15, 2009

1Eric Rhicard Tucson

[Hide Comment] Totally classic Brian. I know there is another piece between the one you mention and the top just not sure what it is, but it was good. Jesse Schultz might remember as it was his second trad route ever and I am pretty sure he found it too. Dec 15, 2009

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com Tucson/DMR   5.11+

[Hide Comment] classic!! an amazingly fun climb!! stoppers and doubles through blue camalot worked well for me. above the bolts, if you trend up and slightly right (you will end up 4' to the right of the anchors), you should cross at least three solid placements. (spoiler alert) this included a yellow camalot, a yellow alien, and a #3 ballnut. Apr 5, 2010

Christian RodaoBack Tucson, AZ

[Hide Comment] A bomber large nut, then .75 and #1 BDs go in past the bulge, straight-in placements (ie perpendicular to the rock) but about as bomber as straight-in placements can be.. edit to comment above: Geir is a passive-pro master so unless u are likewise, you might consider bringing more cams...(.75s seem to fit in everywhere on this route) Oct 27, 2011

Austin Sobotka Tucson, AZ   5.11+

[Hide Comment] Awesome route! It felt sort of like I was sport climbing on finger-locks and hand-jams. As for the gear: below the bolts I used a #1 bd, two large stoppers, and a #1 and a #2 Metolius, all of which were bomber (especially the stoppers!). I took the aforementioned right-hand exit above the bolts and found three really good placements: two small hexes and one larger stopper. May 19, 2015

Andrew Megas-Russell Tucson, AZ

[Hide Comment] Killer climb! Gear where you want it on the upper headwall. There is a shallow crack about halfway up the upper headwall that takes an .75 X4 version camalot really well. The old style BD did not fit, but the X4 was perfect! Feb 6, 2017

CASA Climbing Assn of So AZ

[Hide Comment] The fixed anchors on this route were updated by CASA in 2017. See the full list of updated climbs at theclimbershome.org/about-t… Hardware and tools are paid for by your donations, a grant from Access Fund & American Alpine Club, and support from Rocks & Ropes and The BLOC. Jul 10, 2018

. Tucson, AZ

[Hide Comment] Wow, don't get "Sobotka-bagged" on this rig and try to climb it with two cams and a set of nuts lol. Dec 7, 2018

Jon Ruland Tucson, AZ

[Hide Comment] agreed, never take gear beta from the guy who greenpointed Orifice Politics. ;) Mar 23, 2020

John Middendorf Australia and USA

[Hide Comment] Think I might have gotten the first flash of this route, did it right after steiger’s guide was published, 1985, and the guide said it had not yet been flashed. Rated 5.12- back in the day, but thought it was easier than Pegasus, which I also flashed that day. A good visit, also got New Wave clean (w a few falls, pulling rope, old style). Aug 5, 2021