Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1: Rich Thompson, Doug Davis, '76, P2: Gary Gray, John Baade, '77
Page Views: 1,778 total · 13/month
Shared By: Joseph Stover on Nov 17, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1: Climb the dihedral and cracks up to a low angle ramp, belay at the base of the ramp(how it is done most often, possibly) or about midway up the ramp(I recommend, risk drag though), or go all the way to the slab up top with a small crack for nuts(no drag here, but might have issues wth the p1 follow belay). About 5.8 I would say, but very short crux. This is a fun pitch, and you can walk off it "crag left" back to the base of Swim Fin.

P2: Lots of variations. Go straight up above the small vertical crack(No protection?) at the top of the slab, or traverse left about 20 ft on shelf into another crack, good pro, but some runout midway on the face. 5.5 - 5.6 range.

This is a good route to do if you want to try runout, but on ultra easy climbing.

I recommend the left 2nd pitch.

I think you can walk off by jumping the chasm and heading Northish? Or just get on the obviously visible set of chains and rap down.

I think this route has been seeing some traffic lately. It is not spectacular, but fun climbing and worth doing if you are into moderate trad and easy runout.

I lean to calling it PG13 on this site because of the runout on the ramp and on the 2nd pitch. Either way it is 5.7/8 and 5.5/6R. Although falling should be unlikely, it would be nasty.

Location

Actually on Blazing Fin. In the slot canyon on Swim Fin, Scramble down and left to the base of Blazing Fin, there will be a broken corner with a dihedral and crack, right of a huge "V-Slot"(huge vertical gully-ish cutout).

Protection

1 set of nuts, 1 set of cams: #0.3 to #3 C4, maybe 2 sizes below 0.3 also.

Photos

Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+ PG13
very cool climb! Mar 9, 2008
E IV
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
E IV   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7+
First pitch is delicious for a new trad leader. The pro is obvious and on great stances. Decent exposure if you look out to your right. Oct 26, 2008
Did it today and loved it. I belayed from the small crack at the base of the 2nd pitch and got in one piece before the major runout. (I pretty much climbed the face directly, heading up and left. It was ground/ledge fall territory, but, as promised, straightforward climbing.)

Rather than belay from the two bolts at the top, I crossed the "jump" and belayed from the other side, so as to be on belay for the crossing, and to keep my partner on. I found a decent cam placement and slung a boulder on the other side. The "jump" wasn't that bad for me (though a little heady for my partner). Walkoff was easy... right to the back of Nancy's Thumb -- a good place to stash whatever you don't want to climb with. Aug 8, 2010
Just finished reading "Roaring Mountain" by Shirley Gray which prompted me to look up this route on MP.
As one of Gary's early partners, I was pleased to read that his ashes made it back to our climb from 1977.

RIP Gary Gray!
Much love from your old buddy...............John Bald Jan 27, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Gary was a great guy and it was a shame he died so young. Where did you read Roaring Mountain John? Jan 27, 2017