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Routes in (p) Spiderman Buttress

Best Left to Obscurity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Captain Fingers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Explosive Energy Child T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
First Ascent Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
In Harm's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Out of Harm's Way T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squashed Spider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff Little Fingers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Paul Fry, 1988
Page Views: 5,042 total, 41/month
Shared By: ScottH on Nov 16, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Aside from Cosmos, this route is the best pebble-studded face climb I have done at Smith. The setting, rock, and lichen are all beautiful and so is the distance from the swarming hordes on the front side of the pass.

Jam and lie-back a small, right-facing dihedral to a comfortable ledge. Pumpier than it looks. Clip a bolt, then step out onto the face and tiptoe up endless pebbles to the anchor. This moderate, somewhat sequential climbing is a treat.

Location

The first major crack left of Spiderman Variation.

Protection

Gear to 2", then bolts.
Ben Bilbrough
Beaverton, OR
  5.7+
Ben Bilbrough   Beaverton, OR
  5.7+
Very fun climb. Wish there were more mixed routes.

Beginning of the upper dihedral was a little small for my hands, so ring locks were the moves for the first part of the dihedral, then towards the top found a solid hand jam. Lots of face features, but definitely took some work for the grade.

#.75-#2 with emphasis on the #1 BD Cams sewed it up. Made the mistake of using my moccasym, which made it difficult to get edges on the little nubbins. Very fun climb. Hope this is a good warm up for Screaming Yellow Zonkers Oct 6, 2017
Holden Marsh
Eugene, OR
  5.8
Holden Marsh   Eugene, OR
  5.8
This was an excellent route. Everyone in our party found it much more enjoyable (and possibly easier) than its variation to the left, "In Harm's Way". May 30, 2016
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
Portland, OR
 
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman   Portland, OR
 
This route was longer than it looked from the ground. Definitely some quality pebble pulling on the bolted section. Possibly one of the best 5.8's I have climbed. Apr 15, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8
8 bolts, but skip the last one, or use the last bolt of In Harm's Way. Otherwise the rope drag to the anchor might hurt. Second pitch aint worth doing, for any reason ever. Cams from .75-2" are ideal for the first bit, which is an excellent stint of hand jams. 60m rope will get you down with a few feet to spare. Apr 16, 2012
Morrismc
Portland, Or
 
Morrismc   Portland, Or
 
Amazing Mixed route. I think one of my favorite single pitch climbs at smith! Dec 24, 2010
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.8
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.8
This route has some of the best knob pulling at Smith for any grade. Wonderful route. The bottom will be pretty sewn up with a 0.75, 2 #1s, and a #2. Mar 11, 2008