Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Flapping.../Nuclear arms area

Blowin' In The Wind (aka Flailing in the breeze) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diamond Dogs T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digital Disco T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flappin' In the Breeze T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nuclear Arms T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Accurate T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sugaree T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Nathan Brown, Phil York
Page Views: 1,205 total · 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Nov 16, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

I recently changed the name here due to confusion between this one and Flappin'. This route climbs the white face up and left of "Nuclear arms". It has recently been upgraded with a bolt protecting the starting moves instead of the tree; this extra move is now the technical crux at 11-.

P-1 Climb "Nuclear arms" up to the lower rap tree and belay.

P-2 Start above the tree on the ramp and clip a low bolt (the original line used to climb up the tree and sling the top for pro and then step back down to the face holds out right). Crank long moves on good holds up and left to easier climbing and the second bolt. Move up and slightly right, continuing up the thin face past 3 more bolts, interspersed with a couple small pieces of gear (5.10ish). There is a 2 bolt anchor for the belay (100' back to rap tree, which is 100' to ground).

P-3 continue up the face above (not the bolt out right, which is another option) wandering around to get gear, eventually ending up on the large ledge with the 2 nut rap anchor of "Sugaree". This is a worthwhile 5.8 pitch with an unknown FA history. It is right at 100' to get back to the bolt anchor.

Location

Start either in "Nuclear arms", or skip this pitch by climbing the 4th class ramp to the belay/rap tree. This ramp starts out just to the right of the start for "Flapping in the breeze".

Protection

Cams up to yellow TCU. A few small RP's for above the last bolt.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
Damn it. I saw this route while looking for Sugaree and wasn't sure what it was...have to go back it do it another time. Mar 10, 2010
I did this one soon after it was equipped. Great edging. The only piece of gear, other than draws, was a yellow TCU. Feb 1, 2012

More About Blowin' In The Wind (aka Flailing in the breeze)

Printer-Friendly