Blowin' In The Wind (aka Flailing in the breeze)
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Nathan Brown, Phil York |
Page Views: | 1,847 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Nov 16, 2007 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
I recently changed the name here due to confusion between this one and Flappin'. This route climbs the white face up and left of "Nuclear arms". It has recently been upgraded with a bolt protecting the starting moves instead of the tree; this extra move is now the technical crux at 11-.
P-1 Climb "Nuclear arms" up to the lower rap tree and belay.
P-2 Start above the tree on the ramp and clip a low bolt (the original line used to climb up the tree and sling the top for pro and then step back down to the face holds out right). Crank long moves on good holds up and left to easier climbing and the second bolt. Move up and slightly right, continuing up the thin face past 3 more bolts, interspersed with a couple small pieces of gear (5.10ish). There is a 2 bolt anchor for the belay (100' back to rap tree, which is 100' to ground).
P-3 continue up the face above (not the bolt out right, which is another option) wandering around to get gear, eventually ending up on the large ledge with the 2 nut rap anchor of "Sugaree". This is a worthwhile 5.8 pitch with an unknown FA history. It is right at 100' to get back to the bolt anchor.
P-1 Climb "Nuclear arms" up to the lower rap tree and belay.
P-2 Start above the tree on the ramp and clip a low bolt (the original line used to climb up the tree and sling the top for pro and then step back down to the face holds out right). Crank long moves on good holds up and left to easier climbing and the second bolt. Move up and slightly right, continuing up the thin face past 3 more bolts, interspersed with a couple small pieces of gear (5.10ish). There is a 2 bolt anchor for the belay (100' back to rap tree, which is 100' to ground).
P-3 continue up the face above (not the bolt out right, which is another option) wandering around to get gear, eventually ending up on the large ledge with the 2 nut rap anchor of "Sugaree". This is a worthwhile 5.8 pitch with an unknown FA history. It is right at 100' to get back to the bolt anchor.
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