PRINT: Rock Climb Trick Bag, Little Falls

Trick Bag

5.11c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Little Falls > Dihedrals

Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues Details

This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but apparently they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established.

Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.

Description

In my opinion, this route is the best sport climb in Little Falls. The movement and holds are very aesthetic, flowing surprisingly well together for a Little Falls route. Crimpy face climbing, a juggy overhang and a dynamic move near the top make this a must-do route.

The old guidebook states that the climb is 5.11b for those over 6ft and 5.12b if you're under. I'm 5-7 and didn't find any real height dependent moves, but I did have to find different beta than my taller friends.

Location

This route is on the "Tier of Fear" sector.

This route is on the Upper Tier above the Dihedrals. To reach this section, climb Prepare to meet thy God or scramble up a right facing corner on the Upper Tier's right side.

Protection

Re-bolted. Some of the old bolts are still on the face.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jon Wasser realizing he clipped the older bolt.