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Routes in The Dihedrals
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Arete Style Dysfunction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Arrow, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Billy Tipton T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Arete TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Buzz Junky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cotter's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Day Tripper T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Devil Won't Care T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Devil's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Face off in Albania S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzzy Tights T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Haggis T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Head Cement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Juicer, The S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Prepare to meet thy God T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Racing Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Satan's Ceiling T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Thanador S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trick Bag S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Trojan Elite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,520 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Rafiki on Nov 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Jim Lawyer |
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Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues
Details
This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but apparently they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Description
In my opinion, this route is the best sport climb in Little Falls. The movement and holds are very aesthetic, flowing surprisingly well together for a Little Falls route. Crimpy face climbing, a juggy overhang and a dynamic move near the top make this a must-do route.
The old guidebook states that the climb is 5.11b for those over 6ft and 5.12b if you're under. I'm 5-7 and didn't find any real height dependent moves, but I did have to find different beta than my taller friends.
The old guidebook states that the climb is 5.11b for those over 6ft and 5.12b if you're under. I'm 5-7 and didn't find any real height dependent moves, but I did have to find different beta than my taller friends.
Location
This route is on the "Tier of Fear" sector.
This route is on the Upper Tier above the Dihedrals. To reach this section, climb Prepare to meet thy God or scramble up a right facing corner on the Upper Tier's right side.
This route is on the Upper Tier above the Dihedrals. To reach this section, climb Prepare to meet thy God or scramble up a right facing corner on the Upper Tier's right side.
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