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Routes in Sun Cave

Forever Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Bill Boyle - March, 1991
Page Views: 1,480 total · 12/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 15, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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7 Opinions

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Description

Forever Man is the longest line in the Sun Cave and is very, very steep. I can't remember doing a route that consistently climbs at a 45 degree angle for so long. The quality of the climbing is somewhat lacking: some choss, a cave, fairly boring movement, but it is quite the so-pump-journ in topsy-turvy world.

Begin on the left side of a prow feature at the entrance of the cave, clipping the first bolt from some cheater blocks and then pulling up onto the arete and climbing along the entrance to the cave. Some good rests high on the route precede the most difficult sections, including a desperate move to the anchor clipping jug (made easier by a stem to the adjacent wall). Nothing checks in at 5.12, but 16 clips of muscle make it feel hard. A 60m (probably even a 50m) cord will get you to the ground safely.

Protection

16 draws. Masks for climber and belayer to protect from Hantavirus.

Photos

Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.12b
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.12b
Great route but definitely not as hard as the 2 previous comments would lead you to think. Plenty of knee bars and other various tricks to help keep the pump down, pretty managable at 12b. Jan 8, 2018
lech
  5.12c/d
lech  
  5.12c/d
One of the best climbs out there. The rock feels solid, no choss at this point. Maybe it was chossy when it went up, but it's all cleaned up now. Maybe a few of the jugs feel off at one point and that is why it was put in as 12b. It feels harder than many 12C's and not just the ones in St. George. Don't let that scare you off from trying the route though. Even if you have to hang on all of the 17 hanging draws the experience will be worth it. I will be repeating this route on every trip I take to the area, it is that good. Feb 22, 2016
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.12c/d
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.12c/d
Wow, I don't agree with most of the description for this climb. This is honestly the most fun route I have ever done. The rock may look kind of chossy, but all the holds felt solid and the rock quality actually felt really good. As far as the movement being boring, I highly disagree, you want boring movement go climb Namaste in Kolob canyon, this route has pretty much every type of movement you could imagine and the climbing feels very 3-d and fun.

As far as the rating, the guidebook gives it 5.12c, but the route felt like a very hard 5.12c to me (maybe I didn't find all of the rests, but there's no way it's 5.12b). None of the individual moves are all that difficult, but the very overhanging nature of the route, coupled with the crux coming between the last bolt and the anchors makes this a very tough route for the grade. Also, unless you are very tall and very flexible, there is no way you are stemming between the two walls to get to the anchor clipping jug. I'm 6'0" and fairly flexible, and it was painful to stem between the walls after getting to the anchor clipping jug, no way I would have been able to get that stem before having the jug.

The route has been re-bolted with wave bolts, and has climb-tech steel cable perma-draws hanging currently. Most of the other routes in the cave also have steel permadraws, so if you're hiking up just to climb in the cave you can leave the draws at home, or just bring a few for the short 5.12a as it didn't have any as of 1-18-16.

My advice to all, get on this route it is amazing! Jan 19, 2016