[Hide Comment] This is good climbing. I think if I had had some Jr. Camalots on my rack besides just the QDs, I probably would have placed them. In other words, don't expect Gregorio Martinez type bolt friendly clipping....especially at the bottom. All in all, it has great protection, though. I loved the movement and the length and going to the top of the crag (or at least pretty close to it where the rock remains surprisingly good). The rock is not perfect as in you can't blindly trust it, but the route and the climbing instills thinking and problem solving, which is just fine with me.

Be a heads up belayer as I grabbed a basketball size hold about mid height, which almost made me a widower. It came off fast and it was close, so it still has some cleaning up to do.

The trail is awesome. A heinous appearing steep slope with tons of great switchbacks and tag lines and landscaping....very pleasant. This route alone makes the approach worth it.
We used one rope BTW, and were able to easily connect with another rappel. Nov 16, 2007

[Hide Comment] Well bolted. I was perfectly comfy without gear. Great route. Really quite clean now. Another 20 ascents will do it well. Thanks guys for the good fun. I know there was a buttload o'work with this wall. Jul 3, 2008

[Hide Comment] thought this was a fun route, bolts protect well...

there is an option to lower from a hanging biner at about the 16th? bolt with a 70m rope...lowering from this spot will barely get you down with a 70m only!! Sep 21, 2010

[Hide Comment] At this point, this route is still a choss-pile; I pulled something off (up to basketball size) about every other bolt or so. On the other hand, it's nice to have a 'sport' route of this length with a bunch of mini-roofs; it serves as a warm up to Black Streak.

Also, it's easy to rap with a singe 70 to the anchors atop Baked Bean Sandwich. Aug 10, 2011

[Hide Comment] I agree that the route is well-bolted. It certainly didn't feel run out, and I was also comfortable without gear. The length makes for a sustained and satisfying lead, though towards the anchors, rope drag started to catch up to me.

The consensus seems to be 5.10, but none of the moves felt like 5.10. I would agree with James Garrett above that the route lends itself to thinking and problem solving. I think that if you give yourself a moment to puzzle out the moves, most of the route probably goes a couple of grades easier than that. The only places where it felt 5.10 is where I made strenuous moves to avoid holds I felt were suspect.

As of August 2013, I wouldn't describe the route as a choss pile, but I did pull one (small) hold off, and I think other holds have the potential to come loose. After that, I climbed slowly and carefully, so the lead took longer than expected. I would have been much happier if my belayer had had a helmet and a gri gri. Aug 30, 2013

[Hide Comment] This is a great route! Consistent at the grade of 9/9+ the whole way. Worth going up there for this one alone - although the others are good as well.

The trail is great - a job very well done!! Sep 1, 2014

[Hide Comment] Super route all the way. I thought there was ground fall potential getting to the second bolt but mostly because I didn't use the jug block that appears ready to go. Otherwise very clean. Sep 28, 2015

[Hide Comment] Really nice long route. Didn't pull anything off. Oct 16, 2017

[Hide Comment] It looks like there has been some rock fall towards the top of the route. There was a desperate section of climbing to a large scar where there once was a hold. The remaining holds looked very loose and unsafe. Exposed and fun up to that point. Sep 21, 2019

[Hide Comment] probably my all round favorite at this crag, mostly cause you get more good moves over such a length. Pulled off a couple 12 pounds rocks and cleaned another 10 pound section of looseness. Seems pretty good to go at this point, but I would still wear helmets, at least while belaying. Retrieved a couple mallions on this and another route and added them to the anchors of "baked beans" which were not equipped properly. Now you can pull a rope without it getting twisted. Con Mucho Gusto. Nov 2, 2019

[Hide Comment] Way cool route. We took up a 65m tagline and rapped once all the way to the ground. Loved how high you get on this wall. You're already high up from the road and this route just adds to the effect. A couple good moments of exposure towards the top. There are two really good spots to just stand and rest on the way up. I think I counted 6 or 7 mini-roofs on the way up. Tons of fun. Oct 4, 2020