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Routes in E. The Monument

Lothlorien T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Monument, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Naked Blade T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Road To Serfdom, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stubborn Swede S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Ulner, Micheal Simpson 1988
Page Views: 3,623 total, 30/month
Shared By: Coleman M on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

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18 Opinions

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Description

A wicked fun mixed route on the arete of the Monument. Head up the arete to a really good rest on a ledge, a brown tricam has a bomber placement here. Then sport up to the finish.

Location

As facing the Monument from Pricker Peak it is on the striking arete on the right side.

Protection

small to medium gear and a brown tri-cam, then 3 bolts or so to the top.

Photos

Tom Atkins
Carbondale, Illinois
 
Tom Atkins   Carbondale, Illinois
 
It's 3 bolts of .11a to the rest on the ledge, then clip the 4th and .10b climbing with 2 solid gear placements to the anchors. OR you could just run it out like a champ. Fun stuff. Oct 27, 2014
stj
stj  
Back in the 90's this route was rated 11c in Mike Simpson's guidebook. I was pleased to get the onsight; 11a does seem more like it. Jackson Falls is a great area, and this is one of the best routes. Jul 11, 2010
KENtucky Spurling
Louisville, Ky
KENtucky Spurling   Louisville, Ky
FA- Eric Ulner, Micheal Simpson 1988 Jan 18, 2009