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Detox Mountain

5.12a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 123 votes
FA: Rich Bechler
Illinois > Jackson Falls > E S Canyon > C. Hidden Peaks > C. Cranial/Detox Wall

Description

A total classic in the Jackson Falls area and the midwest for that matter. A tendon friendly sloper pulling extravaganza.

Location

Start in the base of the main wall facing Pricker Peak. Go up the ceter draw line.

Protection

Around 6 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brother Conor moments before breaking off a non essential hold, ruining his send.
[Hide Photo] Brother Conor moments before breaking off a non essential hold, ruining his send.
pulling the last few moves
[Hide Photo] pulling the last few moves
Such a fun climb, a must do for a 12 climber in the falls
[Hide Photo] Such a fun climb, a must do for a 12 climber in the falls
James, clearing his thoughts
[Hide Photo] James, clearing his thoughts
John Dobbe on Detox
[Hide Photo] John Dobbe on Detox

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Travis Melin
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] I think Dave Groth bolted this and has the FA as well. Jan 15, 2008
[Hide Comment] I did the first ascent. Dave helped to clean and bolt for me. The face was covered in lichen like a deer's antler. I pulled off a block which weighed about 30 pounds which stuck in the ground about 10 inches. The block came very closer to impaling my dog and my wife to be Liese. One day while we where working on it Dave was up top taking down gear. All off a sudden I heard a bunch of thrashing and screaming. Then Dave yells a snake at which time I seen a green form coming down the wall and about to hit me. I was leaning on a tree smoking a heester and ran like hell. It turned out to be a green sling that Dave tossed off the edge to scare me. He succeeded because it scared the crap out of me. We where a little snake paranoid because the day before we where looking g for a hold that broke off on another project. While searching for the hold Dave found a snake skin so I came over for a look.Right next to it was the Copperhead that had just crawled out of it. Jan 23, 2008
David A Groth
Lacrosse
[Hide Comment] Another Bechler masterpiece...I just belayed and did a snake dance.

Dave G Jul 14, 2009
Leo Hski
Basalt CO
[Hide Comment] FA Rich Bechler. Warren Zevon song. Oct 20, 2009
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Detox has all of the elements of a perfect 12a sport route: steep, pumpy climbing, with a redpoint crux near the chains. I think it would be a classic at any climbing area in the country. Jan 13, 2011
Billy Arthur
St. Louis
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/17QymKP7l6k Filmed 11/2018 Dec 5, 2018
Shao Hao
Singapore
 
[Hide Comment] This climb is amazing, pretty sustained and lots of cool moves, involves a dyno for me as a 5'3 climber on bolts 3-4. Just curious as to the section right before the chains, is it acceptable to use the big chicken head between Detox and the Farmer? I did that the first time and it seemed reasonable, considering you're going from the left of the chains to the right of it (maybe by 2-3 feet out right). I wasn't sure because it seems like some just went straight up left to the chains and apparently that's the crux? Mine was definitely bolts 2-3. Mar 4, 2019
Joe Ernest
Woodstock, IL
[Hide Comment] My buddy sent this last weekend and I caught it on film. What a classic. This was his seventh 5.12a send. He's really killing it out there. youtu.be/2vUr_zjDFTs Nov 15, 2020
Nathan Devan
Huntsville, AL
[Hide Comment] Felt like we needed even more footage here:

youtube.com/watch?v=JOKkjms… Jul 12, 2021
JD F
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Freaking amazing route! I agree that this would be a classic at any climbing area in the country. Get on this route! It looks harder than it is so don't be intimidated. Thank you for bolting and cleaning this Richard and Dave! Shao Hao: what you did at the top is fine, all the holds up top are basically jugs and the crux is definitely down low. It's easy to get pumped up top though if you don't have endurance considering this is one of the taller routes at Jackson Falls. Sep 9, 2021