Type: Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 904 total · 6/month
Shared By: Stewart M. Green on Nov 14, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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A long, fun, easy route to the top of North Peak, which is an obvious slabby peak easily seen from I-70. It's a good easily accessed starter route on the complex east slabs. The East Ridge itself was previously climbed and has a single bolt rap anchor up high.

Pitch 1: Climb a thin left-angling corner/crack (5.7R) and then up right onto an easier black slab. Continue (5.4 R) to a high bolt. Climb up (5.7) or right (5.6) to a flake. Climb the left side of the flake 20 feet to a good ledge with a 1-bolt and gear belay. 200 feet.

Pitch 2: Smear up a nice slab (5.4 R) to a steeper section and a bolt. Friction moves (5.7) lead up to a ledge and 1 drilled piton belay below a hump. 175 feet.

Rappel from here with double 200-foot ropes or climb down south to the top of a pour-off and below a slot canyon. Scramble 800 feet up the rounded East Ridge, following whatever course suits you and making it either easy or easier. About two-thirds up the ridge, climb a 200-foot pitch (5.0 R) left of a steeper rotten face. At the top of this pitch is a single rappel bolt placed by a previous party. Scramble to the summit from here.

Descent: Downclimb the upper slabs to the rappel bolt. Rappel 200 feet and then scramble back down to the top of Sexy Ogre. Make 2 double-rope rappels (175 feet and 200 feet) from single anchors back to the cliff base.


Finding the cliff: Drive south from I-70 for almost 2 miles and park on the right (west) in an obvious campsite/parking area just before a wash. Hike west on a trail along the wash for a quarter mile until it makes a sharp left. Continue straight and scramble up a slabby pour-off. Hike west up the brushy wash to the base of a large slabby buttress. The route begins on the left side of the face and just right of a deep chimney/pour-off.


Rack: Small selection of Stoppers, TCUs, and small cams; 2 200-foot ropes